In a nutshell: eating here runs from the wine bars of Monti to the markets and bakeries of the Esquilino, the student trattorias of San Lorenzo and the boho tables of Pigneto - with gelato at Palazzo del Freddo and pizza al taglio everywhere in between. Start with the district overview, or plan your wandering through the Monti quarter, the Esquilino's sights and San Lorenzo.
Eating and drinking
Monti favourites
Alle CarretteCasual · Moderate
Monti
Lively pizzeria with some outside seating to the rear and reliable pizza and pasta dishes.
Hours12:00-15:30 & 19:00-23:30
La BarriqueCasual · Moderate
Monti
As popular with local residents as with tourists, a creative, bottle-lined neighbourhood enoteca.
Zia RosettaCasual · Budget
Monti
Small, crusty, almost hollow rolls, creatively stuffed with combinations like ham and fig.
Hours11:00-16:00 Tue-Thu, until 22:00 Fri-Sun
Fatamorgana MontiCasual · Budget
Monti
Artisanal ice cream with seasonal flavours, including offbeat options such as violet.
Hours13:30-21:00, later in summer
Forno da MilvioCasual · Budget
Monti
Grab pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice) with fresh toppings, ideal for a picnic.
Taverna RomanaTrattoria · Moderate
Monti
A bustling Roman osteria with typical Roman dishes, plus homemade tiramisu.
Hours12:30-15:00 & 19:00-23:00
La CarbonaraTrattoria · Moderate
Monti
Lively restaurant specialising in its eponymous dish; patrons are encouraged to graffiti the walls.
Hours12:30-15:00 & 19:00-23:00
Da ValentinoTrattoria · Moderate
Monti
The 1930s sign says 'Birra Peroni' and it feels unchanged since then; try scamorza (a type of cheese) with toppings.
Hours13:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00 Mon-Sat
TemakinhoCasual · Moderate
Monti
This branch of a chain of Brazilian-Japanese restaurants makes for a refreshing change.
Hours12:30-15:30 & 19:00-00:00
BroccolettiTrattoria · Moderate
Monti
Intimate small restaurant with excellent pasta dishes, homemade bread and focaccia, and desserts.
Hours12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:00
GrezzoCasual · Budget
Monti
Intoxicating chocolate delights, from tiramisu to tortes, and superb hot chocolate in winter.
Hours12:00-23:00 Thu-Sat, until 20:00 Sun-Wed
La PrezzemolinaCasual · Budget
Monti
Delicious crispy pizza by the slice, ideal for a quick lunch on the run.
Around Piazza Vittorio Emanuele
Forno Roscioli PietroCasual · Budget
Esquilino
Superlative pizza al taglio and tavola calda (hot table), with indoor and outdoor seating.
Trattoria MontiTrattoria · Moderate
Esquilino
The Camerucci family proffers excellent Marches cuisine. Book well ahead.
Hours13:00-14:45 & 20:00-22:45 Tue-Sun
Amodei Banco e BottegaCasual · Budget
Esquilino
Cheery deli and gourmet-food shop with delicious Italian comfort food like pasta, meatballs and bruschetta.
PanellaCasual · Budget
Esquilino
Longtime bakery with pastries, tartlets, pizza al taglio and tavola calda for a hot, ready lunch such as risotto or pasta.
Gatsby CaféCasual · Budget
Esquilino
The once-milliner Galleria Venturini is now a top aperitivo and cocktail spot.
Hours08:00-00:00 Sun-Thu, until 02:00 Fri-Sat
La Vecchia ConcaTrattoria · Moderate
Esquilino
Family-run trattoria with summer pavement seating and a cosy, vaulted interior.
Hours12:30-15:00 & 19:00-22:45 Thu-Tue
Trattoria Da DaniloTrattoria · Moderate
Esquilino
Famed for cacio e pepe (pasta with cheese and pepper), served from a hulled cheese.
Hours13:00-15:00 Tue-Sat, 20:00-23:00 Mon-Sat
Pasticceria RegoliCasual · Budget
Esquilino
Chandelier-lit pasticceria, much loved since 1916; its crostate (latticed jam tarts) are a tangy fruit delight.
San Lorenzo and Santa Croce
Taverna dei MiglioriTrattoria · Moderate
San Lorenzo
Fresh produce gives zing to authentic Roman dishes at an elegant trattoria with indoor and outside seats.
Osteria La Sol FaTrattoria · Budget
San Lorenzo
Basic place with wood panelling, paper tablecloths and classic Roman hearty pastas.
Hours11:00-14:30 & 18:00-22:30 Mon-Sat
Palazzo del Freddo di Giovanni FassiCasual · Budget
Esquilino
A temple to gelato, established in 1880 and run by the founder's great-grandson.
Hours12:00-00:00, from 10:00 Sun
Marco G OsteriaTrattoria · Budget
Esquilino
Simple osteria with Roman dishes like carbonara and amatriciana.
Hours12:00-15:00 & 18:00-23:00 Thu-Sun, 17:30-23:00 Mon & Wed
La Trattoriola di LucaTrattoria · Moderate
San Lorenzo
Fun, curio-filled and bottle-lined, with seasonal cooking and excellent fresh fish.
Hours12:00-15:00 Wed-Sun, 19:00-23:00 daily
Pizzeria Formula 1Casual · Budget
San Lorenzo
Bargain-priced bruschetta, fried zucchini flowers, supplì (risotto balls) and thin-crust pizza, with outdoor seating.
Pommidoro dal 1890Trattoria · Moderate
San Lorenzo
Stuck-in-time Roman restaurant; Stanley Tucci stopped by on his Italy trip.
Hours12:30-15:30 & 19:00-23:00, Sep-Jul
Tram TramTrattoria · Moderate
San Lorenzo
A Slow Food hub, mixing classical Roman dishes with Puglian seafood.
Hours12:30-15:00 & 19:30-23:00
Pigneto and Centocelle
Osteria Qui se Magna!Trattoria · Budget
Pigneto
Neighbourhood place tucked away in the backstreets, cooking up a storm.
Vitaminas 24Casual · Moderate
Pigneto
Vegetarian and vegan cuisine under the creative eye of Brazilian owner Giuliana.
LegsCasual · Budget
Pigneto
Gourmet fast food and fried chicken - sandwiches by Rome's doyen of pizza, Gabriele Bonci.
Hours18:30-00:00 daily, 13:00-15:30 Sat & Sun
Menabó Vino e CucinaTrattoria · Moderate
Centocelle
Creative Roman cooking in simple surroundings, helmed by two brothers. Book ahead.
Hours12:30-15:00 Sat-Sun, 19:30-00:00 Tue-Sun
Drinking in Monti
- ✦Ai Tre Scalini - much-loved wine bar since 1895, with some outdoor tables on a pretty cobbled street; noon-2am.
- ✦Fafiuchè - this narrow, bottle-lined enoteca (wine bar) is a relaxed place for wine and snacks; 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat.
- ✦Al Vino al Vino - bottle-lined wine bar which also specialises in distillati - grappa, whisky and so on; 10am-2pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat.
- ✦La Bottega del Caffè - on one of Rome's prettiest squares, a Monti hub at any time of day; 8am-2am.
- ✦Libreria Caffè Bohemien - hybrid Francophile wine bar, tearoom and bookshop; 5pm-1am Sun, Mon, Wed & Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat.
- ✦Antigallery - outdoor seating on the cobbled, elevated Piazza degli Zingari, perfect on a balmy night; 5pm-2am.
- ✦Wav Roma - a tiny social club just along from Piazza degli Zingari, with cocktails and beers plus seating on steps across the street; 5.30pm-2am.
- ✦Blackmarket Hall - interlinked, vintage-furnished sitting rooms with cocktails, regular live jazz and swing; 6pm-2am, to 1am Sun.
Markets
- ✦Nuovo Mercato Esquilino - the big multiethnic food market reached from Piazza Vittorio Emanuele along Via Mamiani; an essential stop for ingredients and street food from around the world.
- ✦San Lorenzo market - the neighbourhood market, at its best by day.
- ✦Viale del Pigneto market - Pigneto's street market, busiest in the morning.