Getting around Italy
Italy's main city-to-city links are easiest by rail, while regional buses fill gaps on the map. A car is useful for remote places, but toll roads, ZTL cameras and strict parking rules make driving a choice to plan rather than a default.
Arriving by air
International gateways
From North America, most nonstop service lands at Rome's Aeroporto Internazionale Leonardo da Vinci (FCO), usually called Fiumicino, or Milan's Aeroporto Malpensa (MXP). Venice (VCE), Naples (NAP), Florence (FLR) and Bologna (BLQ) also receive some nonstop flights from the United States. Direct routes may depart from New York (JFK and EWR), Boston (BOS), Philadelphia (PHL), Chicago (ORD), Detroit (DTW), Denver (DEN), Dallas (DFW), Houston (IAH), Washington DC (IAD), Miami (MIA), Los Angeles (LAX) and San Francisco (SFO).
| Origin | Flying time |
|---|---|
| New York | 8-8½ hours |
| Chicago | 10-11 hours |
| Los Angeles | 11½ hours |
ITA Airways has nonstop service to Rome (FCO) from New York (JFK), Miami (MIA), Boston (BOS), Washington DC (IAD), Los Angeles (LAX) and San Francisco (SFO). Its nonstop Milan (MXP) route in this group is from New York (JFK). Routes may be seasonal, and some do not run every day. Other airlines with nonstop Italy service include American Airlines, Delta Air Lines, United Airlines, Norse Atlantic Airways, Emirates, Neos Air and La Compagnie. Many Europe-based carriers also reach Italy by connecting through their own continental hubs.
Ferrovie dello Stato Italiane (FS) airport trains and buses connect Fiumicino with Roma Termini and Malpensa with Milano Cadorna or Milano Centrale. From Milan's main stations, onward trains serve destinations throughout Italy. Allow about 40 minutes between Fiumicino and Roma Termini, and under one hour between Malpensa and Milano Centrale.
Buses across Italy
Italy has a broad regional bus network, much of it run by private companies. Trains are often the more appealing choice for longer journeys, while bus schedules commonly reflect commuter and student travel and can be thin on weekends. Coaches become essential for places away from the rail lines. Even where a train is available, a bus may be faster or more direct, so compare both timetables before choosing.
- ✦Busitalia-Sita Nord serves Tuscany, Umbria, Campania and the Veneto.
- ✦Sita Sud operates in Puglia, Basilicata and Campania.
- ✦FlixBus provides a low-cost long-distance option.
Driving across Italy
Italy's autostradas are toll highways, supported by well-kept superstrade that do not charge a toll. Keep the ticket issued when you enter an autostrada and hand it over at the exit payment point. On some shorter autostradas, payment is collected as you join the road instead. Provincial roads vary in surface and width, but upkeep is generally good.
Self-service pumps are common. Stations on the autostradas stay open 24 hours; elsewhere, the usual pattern is Monday through Saturday from 7 to 7, with a midday pause. Automobile Club Italiano provides round-the-clock roadside assistance. For a police emergency, call 112. Autogrill offers dependable food and drink at highway stops across the country.
Parking and ZTLs
A blue curb line marks a paid parking space. Pay at the nearby parcometro, then put the printed receipt on the dashboard. Parking penalties are steep and towing is common. Designated lots are the safer choice, especially an attended lot, and even small towns often have one just beyond the historic centre.
A ZTL, short for Zone a Traffico Limitato or Limited Traffic Zone, restricts entry in most towns and cities during specified hours. Access is normally limited to permit holders, residents and businesses. Watch the signs carefully: some are mounted high and easy to overlook. Cameras read licence plates, and an unauthorized entry can result in a fine delivered to your home weeks or even months later. Hotels will usually register a guest's car with the local police so it can enter the ZTL.
Driving rules to know
| Road setting | Limit |
|---|---|
| Autostradas | 130 kph (80 mph) |
| State roads | 90 kph (55 mph) |
| Towns | 50 kph (30 mph) |
| Congested areas | As low as 10 kph (6 mph) |
- ✦A U.S. driver's license can be used to rent a car, but non-Europeans must also carry an International Driver's Permit (IDP). AAA issues one for a nominal fee through its website.
- ✦A right turn against a red light is forbidden. Keep headlights on outside municipalities and wear seat belts.
- ✦Driving more than 60 kph (37 mph) above the posted limit can lead to confiscation of your license.
- ✦Mobile-phone violations while driving can exceed €1,300.
- ✦The blood alcohol limit is 0.05%, stricter than the limit in the United States.
Trains
High-speed and Intercity services
The fastest trains of Ferrovie dello Stato Italiane (FS) are the Frecciarossa services. The private operator Nuovo Trasporto Viaggiatori, better known as Italo, also runs high-speed trains between all the major cities of northern Italy and continues as far south as Reggio Calabria.
| Service | Reservation | Key detail |
|---|---|---|
| Frecciarossa and Italo | Required | High-speed travel |
| Eurostar and Intercity (IC) | Required | IC tickets cost about half as much as the faster services |
| Regionale and Espresso | Not available | Slower, more stops and less expensive |
Tickets and regional trains
Buy rail tickets from station machines or through Trenitalia. The Trenitalia app can keep a ticket on your phone and automatically validate it when the journey begins. Regionale and Espresso services do not take reservations. They make more stops and cost less, but you must validate a paper ticket before boarding by punching it in a yellow or green box fixed to a wall or pillar. If you forget, find the conductor immediately. Travelling without a ticket can bring a fine of €50-€200.
When a rail pass pays off
A rail pass can reduce the overall cost of travelling by train. It becomes more worthwhile as you add long journeys on high-speed services. A pass does not remove the need to reserve a seat on services that require reservations.