Sicily in depth - a complete regional route

One island, several trips

Sicily stretches between the toe of Italy and Tunisia, about 160 km to the southwest. Its major sights can fit into a couple of weeks, but the island is more enjoyable when a palace, ruin or museum is followed by a sea swim, a nature walk or a market lunch. Palermo and western ruins suit one route, Catania and Etna another, and Syracuse, Noto and the southeast a third. Ferries and trains link the main cities, while a car opens rural beaches, hill towns, vineyards and archaeological parks.

If you only have three days

1. 01Use Catania as a base for the lava-built centre, the fish market and one Etna day with a qualified guide.
2. 02Take the train to Syracuse for Ortygia, the Greek theatre and a sea-facing evening.
3. 03If a beach and baroque town are more appealing than another city, replace Syracuse with Taormina or Noto, but do not attempt to cross the whole island.

If you have a week or more

A seven-day, approximately 755 km circuit can run Palermo, Agrigento, Syracuse, Catania, Taormina and Cefalù. A slower western route adds Trapani, Erice, Segesta, Selinunte and Favignana before Agrigento. From Syracuse, use the Val di Noto wine road and baroque towns, then finish with the Aeolian Islands if ferry connections and weather allow.

Seasonal Sicily

Summer can be furnace-hot and humid, while spring brings wildflowers and autumn combines warm water with harvests. Syracuse and Catania average 346 hours of sunshine each month. Their mean daily maximum reaches 32°C in July and August and 16°C in January and February. March is famously unpredictable, swinging from sharp rain and near-freezing lows to sunny days in the low 20s, so pack layers and an umbrella.

Palermo: mosaics, markets and rebellion

Palermo is nearly 3,000 years old. Arabs conquered it in 831 CE, and Norman rule began in 1072 under Roger I, who kept Arab, Byzantine, Greek and Italian communities in the city. Contemporary Palermo still carries all of those layers: palazzi and churches stand beside noisy markets, artisan workshops, street artists and traces of the fight against the Mafia. Walk with curiosity, because an orange-filled cloister or a damaged backstreet can reveal as much as a headline monument.

Quattro Canti, the city's open-air theatre

The intersection of Via Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda is known as Quattro Canti and Il Teatro del Sole. Its four late-Renaissance facades use Doric, Ionic and Composite orders to represent the seasons, Spanish rulers and female saints of Palermo. Return at different times of day to watch the sun move across the curves. Street musicians, horse carriages, Piaggio Ape taxis and €5 Aperol spritzes make the crossroads theatrical; pair the view with panelle and Sicilian craft beer at Bisso Bistrot before following pedestrian Via Maqueda.

The royal complex and its gold chapel

Palazzo dei Normanni, also called Palazzo Reale, began as a 9th-century Arab fortress and became a Norman pleasure palace under Roger II. It is now the seat of the Sicilian Regional Assembly. The Cappella Palatina, created in 1130 by Byzantine Greek artisans, covers the presbytery, apse, dome and nave with scenes from Christ's life, the saints, prophets, Evangelists and the Old Testament. The painted wooden ceiling is a rare surviving example of 12th-century Fatimid art in the Mediterranean.

The Royal Apartments add the Hall of Viceroys, Hall of Mosaics and Hall of Winds. Friday to Monday is the best period if you want to see them. Tickets with a time slot are listed at €19/11 for adults and children and are particularly important from June to September. An audioguide costs €5. Bring a scarf because shorts, short skirts and bare shoulders are not permitted in the chapel. The gardens and Giardini Café offer a shaded pause.

Cathedral roofs and churches

Cattedrale di Palermo combines geometric patterns, ziggurat crenellations, majolica cupolas and blind arches in a 13th-century Arab-Norman form. Royal Norman tombs hold Roger II, Frederick II of Hohenstaufen, Henry VI and William II, while the treasury safeguards relics of Santa Rosalia. The cathedral-only ticket is €12/6; a combined ticket covering the cathedral's tombs, crypt, apse, treasury and roof plus the Diocesan Museum is €15/8. The rooftop route climbs 110 steep stone steps and can remain open until midnight once a week in summer.

Santa Caterina and the convent bakery

The 14th-century Chiesa e Monastero di Santa Caterina d'Alessandria takes about two hours to explore. The church was built between 1580 and 1596; its frescoed dome shows the Triumph of the Holy Dominicans, the main altar is set with amethyst and lapis lazuli and Filippo Randazzo painted the vault. The majolica cloister has balconied cells around an 18th-century fountain. I Segreti del Chiostro sells cannoli and cakes for about €3, best eaten below an orange tree.

Markets, street food and La Kalsa

Ballarò, Il Capo and Vucciria are not interchangeable. Ballarò is a dense sensory market of produce, fish, grills and neighbourhood life. Il Capo combines stalls with churches and street art. Vucciria is quieter as a traditional market but remains lively after dark. At Ballarò, stigghiola is a local dare: veal, lamb or goat intestine wrapped around spring onion or leek, seasoned with parsley, grilled over charcoal and served in salted pieces with lime. Other stalls specialise in boiled octopus, arancini and pani câ mèusa, an offal sandwich.

Palazzi, shopping and the Mafia story

Palazzo Alliata di Villafranca looks unkempt outside but opens into salons from the 18th and 19th centuries, with stained glass, Serpotta stucco, majolica floors and gilded leather. Guided tours run 10.30am-5.30pm Friday to Monday and cost €15/10. Across Via Vittorio Emanuele, Cappadonia Gelati is known for salted peanut and bacio di dama flavours. Other local purchases include terracotta presepi from Angela Tripi, volcano-inspired jewellery from Naná Aristova, Sicilian flat caps from Barbisio, Etna-lava pigments at Sicilia Inspired, recycled bags at Rogato and miniature Palermo buildings from La Cittàcotte di Vincenzo Vizzari.

The No Mafia Memorial is a donation-based multimedia exhibition on Via Vittorio Emanuele. Allow two hours for photographs, newspaper clippings and the history of Mafia and anti-Mafia resistance. Its story reaches from 15th-century feudal bravos and market extortion to the assassination of Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino in 1992. Addiopizzo maps businesses that refuse extortion payments.

Palermo logistics

Walk the historic centre wherever possible. Prestia e Comandè shuttle buses connect Falcone-Borsellino Airport with the Via Roma stop by La Rinascente; airport trains to Palermo Centrale are less frequent. Social Bike rents bicycles and runs themed tours, while Streaty offers market walks. The Infopoint beside Piazza Bellini has current bus times and monument hours. The free Il Genio card can cover reduced admission at several old-town churches. City Sightseeing and Panoramic Palermo Tour also serve Monreale and Mondello.

Monreale, Mondello, Ustica and Cefalù

Monreale's Temple of Gold

AMAT bus 389 leaves Piazza Indipendenza and reaches Monreale in about 30 minutes for €1.40. Cattedrale di Monreale is listed at €4/2 and opens 9am-12.30pm and 2-4.40pm Monday to Saturday, 2-4.30pm Sunday. Its completed 1184 mosaics retell 42 biblical scenes, and a €1.50 brochure maps them. The roof terrace looks across the cloister and Palermo. The cloister costs €7/3.50 and contains 228 carved columns beneath Romanesque arches. Monreale Cathedral carries current hours.

On summer weekends, AMAT bus 806 runs from Piazza Crispi to Mondello in about 30 minutes for €1.40, with a summer frequency of around every ten minutes. The beach became fashionable after 19th-century aristocrats built villas; the 1913 Liberty pier and baths now contain Alle Terrazze, a restaurant with a raw bar and views. Ustica hydrofoils leave from Palermo and should be booked through Liberty Lines. Da Gaetano rents e-bikes, scooters and boats above the island port.

Ustica's reserve and lentils

Ustica is a volcanic island in a marine reserve about 90 minutes from Palermo. Dolphins and sea turtles may appear on the approach, and May to October is its best diving period. Orca Diving and Évasion Blu Diving operate near Cala Santa Maria. The Sentiero del Mezzogiorno runs 6 km west of the port to the lighthouse and Piscina Naturale, with volcanic-rock paths, hibiscus, prickly pear, dry-stone walls and sea access.

Ustica's small brown lentil is a Slow Food Presidium. Farmers sow it with horse-drawn ploughs in December, dry it in the field and harvest it by hand when the leaves yellow in June. The traditional pistata delle lenticchie separates lentils from straw. Agriturismo Hibiscus, 1.8 km west of the port, has a small museum, while Specialità di Maria Cristina sells island produce 8am-1pm Monday to Saturday. Agriturismo Hibiscus and Specialità di Maria Cristina publish details.

Cefalù between beach and cathedral

Cefalù is about 50 minutes from Palermo. The cathedral is free to enter, while its towers, rooftop and mosaics require tickets listed at €13/10, or €10/8 for only tower, roof and mosaics. Cristo Pantocratore is the oldest and best-preserved Byzantine mosaic in Sicily, older than Monreale's by about 30 years. La Rocca climbs 240 m over 1.5 km and usually takes 45 minutes to two hours; admission is €5/2.50. Avoid the ascent in midday summer heat.

A walk east from Spiaggia del Porto Vecchio follows Greek-era city walls to Capo Cefalù, rock pools and a 1900 lighthouse. The Festa del Santissimo Salvatore peaks on 6 August with Ntinna a mare, when 17 men try to cross a soaped 16 m pole above the water. The festival's pasta 'a taianu layers minced meat, aubergine, tomato and pecorino in a terracotta dish.

Trapani and the western escapes

Trapani is a compact port town of baroque churches, ficus and palms in Villa Margherita, a pedestrian main street and a fishing tradition linked to couscous, Pantellerian capers and tuna. Spiaggia di San Giuliano is about a 30-minute walk from Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. Ferries and hydrofoils leave from Stazione Marittima, while Trapani's old centre is easy to cover on foot.

Trapani Rent opposite the fast ferry terminal rents bicycles for €10 per day and e-bikes for €15. AST buses take about 35 minutes from Trapani-Birgi airport for €4.90. Salemi buses take about 1 hour 45 minutes from Palermo Airport for €11. Trapani Rent, AST and Autoservizi Salemi carry current schedules.

Coral and the misteri

Trapani's coral fishery dates to 1416. A workshop at Gioielleria Rossocorallo di Rosadea Fiorenza explains the family craft of Platimiro Fiorenza, a UNESCO Living Human Treasure whose work includes a coral Madonna for the pope and a coral-and-silver Fendi handbag. Museo Nazionale Pepoli, in a former monastery cloister, charges €7/3 and displays coral chalices, reliquaries and presepi from the 16th to 18th centuries. Platimiro Fiorenza lists workshop information.

At Easter, the four-day Processione dei Misteri carries life-size wooden figures of Mary, Jesus and other biblical scenes through town. The Tuesday before Easter brings a Virgin Mary procession and Good Friday ends with an all-night event. The misteri remain on view year-round in Chiesa Anime Sante del Purgatorio, where admission is free. Processione dei Misteri gives the calendar.

Couscous alla trapanese and busiate

Couscous alla trapanese reflects Trapani's position on the route to Tunisia. The seafood broth comes separately with garlic, chilli, tomato, saffron and wine, and you add enough liquid to keep the semolina pearls from becoming heavy. Busiate are flat pasta ribbons curled around a skewer and are traditionally paired with tomato, basil, garlic and almond pesto. La Bettolaccia and Tentazioni di Gusto are listed for local cooking; Caupona Taverna di Sicilia is a place to look for couscous.

Erice and Segesta

From Trapani, the cable car reaches medieval Erice in about 45 minutes. Funivia Erice lists online return tickets at €11/4. Wear shoes with grip on the polished stone lanes. Castello di Venere, built by Normans over a Roman Temple of Venus, lists admission at €4/2 when open. Pasticceria di Maria Grammatico's hidden garden is a strong stop for almond sweets.

Parco Archeologico di Segesta lies 32 km west of Trapani and is about 30 minutes away by car. Admission is €12/7. Its Doric temple keeps all 36 columns, and the 3rd-century BCE theatre sits 1.25 km away on Monte Bàrbaro, reachable on foot or by a €1.50 shuttle. Allow half a day. The Segesta Teatro Festival runs in July and August; tickets listed through CoopCulture are €25/10. Segesta Archaeological Park publishes access details.

Zingaro, beaches and Selinunte

South of Trapani, pink salt pans recall the old tuna-preserving industry. North, Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro protects rocky coves and paths through almond, carob and ash. Admission is listed at €5/3. Riserva dello Zingaro connects the entrances and current conditions. Cala Capreria is a wild pebble beach 1.5 km from the southern entrance, Cala della Disa is a shallow family cove 3.5 km from either entrance, Spiaggia dei Faraglioni is reached through the Tonnara di Scopello complex for €15, and Guidaloca has public and private sections.

Selinunte is about 1.5 hours from Trapani. Ancient Greek Selinos had more than 100,000 residents before Carthage destroyed it in 409 BCE. Parco Archeologico di Selinunte charges €10 for adults and is free for children. Temple E is the centrepiece, the acropolis lies about 2 km from the entrance and Temple C retains 14 of its original 17 columns. The Sanctuary of Malophoros and Ancient City complete the long walk. CoopCulture carries tickets.

Favignana is a butterfly-shaped island about 40 minutes by hydrofoil from Trapani. Ex-Stabilimento Florio, a tuna cannery used until 1977, documents the mattanza. Rent a bike or scooter to reach Cala Rossa, then continue 1.6 km to Giardino dell'Impossibile, a garden in tufa courtyards, tunnels and caves 25 m deep. Visits last about 1.5 hours from April to October and cost €15/12. Giardino dell'Impossibile handles reservations.

Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples

Agrigento's hilltop old town rises above the southwestern coast, while the Valley of the Temples preserves the best-known remains of ancient Akragas. The modern town adds medieval staircases, white baroque cherubs, a convent bakery and food built around almonds, fava beans and sweet couscous. Ancient residents moved uphill in the 7th century CE to escape North African Saracen attacks, leaving the lower temples as a layered archaeological landscape.

Getting to the temples

Agrigento's historic centre is walkable, with metered parking at Piazzale Aldo Moro and Piazza Vittorio Emanuele. TUA bus 1 runs every 30 minutes from Piazzale Rosselli to the archaeological museum in 10 minutes and Porta V in 20 minutes. A tobacconist ticket costs €1.20 and a ticket bought on board costs €1.70. Buses 2 and 2/ reach the Tempio di Giunone entrance in about 10 minutes; field parking is €2 per hour.

The Valley of the Temples is illuminated from 9pm. Entry is free from 7pm on the first Sunday of the month, and guided sunset visits run 5pm from January to June and 6.30pm from July to September. The Valley of the Temples ticket is €15/9, or €19.80/11.40 with the archaeological museum and €21/14 with the Kolymbetra Garden. Allow at least three hours for the 5 km route and refill water at the Giunone entrance.

The old town and museum

Cattedrale di San Gerlando contains the undeciphered 17th-century letter said to have been written by the Devil to a nun. Admission is €4/free, or €6/free with the towers and Museo Diocesano. The Torre Campanaria balcony and 83-step Torre dell'Orologio provide the best views over the sea and temples. Museo Diocesano costs €3/free or €6/free in the combined ticket. Chiesa di Santa Maria dei Greci overlays a Norman ceiling and Byzantine frescoes on a Doric temple, while Monastero di Santo Spirito, a free Cistercian convent, sells cakes baked by nuns.

Museo Archeologico Pietro Griffo is the useful prelude to the ruins. Its 7.6 m reconstructed telamon once stood between columns of the Temple of Zeus, which reached 32 m and took 70 years to build. The museum lists admission at €9/4.50, or €19.80/11.40 with the Valley. Valley of the Temples also carries museum information.

Walking the ancient ridge

• ✦Tempio di Giunone - a 5th-century BCE temple with a ridge-top sea view, colonnade, altar and red fire traces probably connected with the 406 BCE Carthaginian invasion.
• ✦Tempio della Concordia - a 430 BCE temple retaining 13 columns along its length and six across, and the model for UNESCO's logo.
• ✦Tempio di Ercole - eight re-erected columns from Agrigento's oldest temple, dating to the 6th century BCE.
• ✦Tempio di Zeus Olympios - rubble from the unfinished largest Doric temple, with fragments of the 8 m telamons and a cement reconstruction.
• ✦Santuario delle Divinità Ctoniche - the 5th-century BCE Dioscuri temple and 6th-century BCE altars for Demeter and Persephone.
• ✦Giardino della Kolymbetra and Giardino dei Sensi - shade, fruit trees, medicinal flowers, fountains and a separate-ticket garden in the western part of the park.

Beaches around Agrigento

Catania: lava, markets and baroque

Catania was rebuilt twice: Etna's 1669 lava flow reached the city, then the 1693 earthquake killed 12,000 people. Architect Giovanni Battista Vaccarini rebuilt palazzi and churches in pale stone and black lava. The result is a youthful, energetic city where Roman ruins, market grills, baroque facades and street art occupy the same blocks.

Airport and city movement

Catania airport is 7 km southwest of the centre. Trains cost €2.20 and take about seven minutes to the station; AMT buses cost €4 and take around 20 minutes. From the station, the centre is a 20-minute walk or a short metro ride to Piazza Stesicoro. The historic core is compact but slightly hilly. Helbiz, Dott and Lime e-scooters are convenient; chaotic traffic and lava-stone pavements make bicycles less comfortable. The tourist office inside Museo Diocesano helps with opening times, buses and tours.

La Pescheria and Piazza del Duomo

La Pescheria fish market opens at 7am, closes Sunday and is usually being washed down by 1pm. Enter beside Fontana dell'Amenano and watch swordfish, moray eels, anchovies and seafood being sold and grilled. Scirocco Sicilian Fish Lab serves battered fish and fried Etna pasta; ask for cartoccio di mare senza spine for boneless fish. Stalls around Via Cardinale Dusmet grill the catch and polpette di cavallo, while snails outside Giardino Pacini sell for €5 a bucket.

On Piazza del Duomo, Prestipino is useful for cappuccino, paste di mandorla and crespelle di riso. Cattedrale di Sant'Agata holds the tomb of composer Vincenzo Bellini. Museo Diocesano's roof terrace costs €3, the museum €7/4, and the combined museum and Roman baths ticket €10/6. The silver reliquary bust of Sant'Agata is paraded on 5 February. Fontana dell'Elefante combines a Roman lava elephant with an Egyptian obelisk and is associated with legends of protection from Etna.

Churches and palazzi

Chiesa di San Benedetto is the single church to prioritise if time is short. The €6/4 ticket covers its white stucco, coloured marble, jasper altar, gold inlays and Giovanni Tuccari frescoes from 1726-1729.It opens Tuesday, Friday and Saturday; Sunday Mass in English is at 11am. Other rooftop options include Badia di Sant'Agata, the 141 steps of San Nicolò l'Arena, San Giuliano's 34 steps across the cupola, Museo Diocesano and the rooftop bar at Ostello degli Elefanti.

Palazzo Biscari was modified in 1763 and contains mirrors, majolica, Murano glass, marquetry, stucco and frescoes among more than 600 rooms. Guided tours run at 10am and noon Monday to Saturday and cost €10/7. The aristocratic terrace once hosted Goethe and later appeared in Coldplay's Violet Hill video. Follow a 2.5 km, two- to three-hour baroque walk from Piazza del Duomo through Via Crociferi and the Benedettini monastery to Castello Ursino.

Etna, Bronte and Taormina

A live volcano

Mount Etna stands at 3,369 m after the July 2024 summit change and occupies the 581 sq km Parco dell'Etna. The height of trails and the shape of the summit can change after a new flow. Access above 2,500 m requires a professional guide. At altitude bring closed boots, windproof layers, warm headwear, gloves, sunscreen, sunglasses, water and a scarf for dust and gas. The Funivia dell'Etna cable car from Rifugio Sapienza reaches 2,500 m for €50/30 return for adults and children aged 5-10, or €86/46 with a 4WD bus.

Etna Sud is the accessible side from Catania, ending at Piazzale Rifugio Sapienza at 1,923 m. Etna Nord begins at Piano Provenzana at 1,800 m and is quieter but has no public transport. Summit treks can reach 3,300 m when conditions permit; the central crater is about 500 m wide and 250 m high, and the Valle del Bove drops about 1,000 m from a collapsed cone. Families can circle the Silvestri crater on an easy 1 km path or reach the 2001 crater without a guide.

Bronte's pistachios

Bronte's DOP pistachio is protected as a national treasure by the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity. It appears in sweets, arancini, pasta sauce and meat dishes. A' Ricchigia lists a 1 hour 45 minute farm visit at €40. Farmers cut flowers to control the crop and harvest by hand in late August and early September every two years across a 35-hectare grove.

Taormina from sea to summit

Buses from Catania reach Taormina in about 1.5 hours for €7. The Funivia Mazzarò-Taormina cable car takes 15 minutes and lists tickets at €6 single, €10 return or €20 for a day; children under 1 m travel free. Walking from Mazzarò involves more than 700 steps, 2.2 km and 45 minutes to one hour. Below the town, Isola Bella, Mazzarò, Baie delle Sirene, Spisone and Mazzeo provide pebble or sandy beaches; the Isola Bella nature reserve costs €5/2.50.

Teatro Greco was built in the 3rd century BCE and is still used for music, opera, dance and theatre. Parco Naxos Taormina lists admission at €12/6. Visit early or after dark in June, July and August, when some performances keep the theatre open until midnight. The 543-step Via Crucis reaches Santuario Madonna della Rocca and the 12th-century Castello Saraceno. End the town walk at Villa Comunale, the garden created by Florence Trevelyan.

Syracuse and Ortygia

Corinthian colonists founded Syracuse on Ortygia in 734 BCE. It became larger than Athens and Corinth before Roman conquest, and today its archaeological park, sea-facing island lanes and baroque piazzas form one of Sicily's most complete city experiences. From Catania, trains cost €8.80 and take 75 minutes; Interbus-Etna Trasporti buses take about 1.5 hours for €6.20 one way or €9.60 return.

The Ortygia perimeter

Walk Ortygia's sea edge in less than an hour, longer with stops. Forte San Giovannello and Forte Vigliena form part of the 16th-century defences, and stairs below Vigliena lead to a local swimming platform. Castello Maniace was built for Frederick II; admission is €9/4.50 including a temporary exhibition. Continue to Fonte Aretusa and finish at the pedestrian jetty. Swimming options include Solarium Forte Vigliena, Spiaggia Diana nel Forte, the crowded Spiaggia di Cala Rossa, private Solarium Zefiro and Solarium Zen.

The open-air market runs every morning except Sunday along Via Emanuele Benedictis, Via Trento and Via Raffaele Lanza. At Fratelli Burgio, a charcuterie board and wine can be eaten while vendors shout across the stalls; Caseificio Borderi makes giant panini and shucks oysters nearby. On Piazza del Duomo, the cathedral incorporates Doric columns from the Athena temple and admission is €2. Chiesa di Santa Lucia alla Badia has a blue majolica floor, while I Cannoli del Re fills cones with pistachio, lemon or chocolate ricotta cream.

Greek drama and the Neapolis park

Teatro Greco seats about 16,000 and was cut from the hillside in the 5th century BCE before being rebuilt two centuries later. Parco Archeologico della Neapolis contains the theatre, Latomia del Paradiso, the 23 m-high Orecchio di Dionisio, the Ara di Gerone II and a Roman amphitheatre. Adult admission is €16.50 and children enter free; the combined park and Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi ticket is €18. Syracuse archaeological parks gives current details. The INDA Festival del Teatro Greco runs from mid-May to early July, and tickets should be booked ahead through INDA.

Noto, Ragusa, Modica and the southeast

Southeast Sicily combines late-Baroque towns with olive hills, vineyards, wetlands, caves and beaches. Noto is about 45 minutes from Syracuse by car via SS115. The Val di Noto wine route includes Moscato di Noto, Passito, Nero d'Avola and Syrah. Strada del Val di Noto lists wineries and tastings, while Siracusa Tour Bike rents bicycles and books guided rides.

Infiorata and the Noto walk

The third weekend in May brings Infiorata di Noto. For three days, Via Corrado Nicolaci becomes a 700 sq m design made with fresh flower petals, accompanied by concerts, parades and tastings. Infiorata di Noto publishes the programme. In the baroque centre, enter through Porta Reale, continue past Basilica del Santissimo Salvatore, Chiesa di Santa Chiara, the cathedral and Palazzo Ducezio, then climb to Palazzo Castelluccio and finish with a drink overlooking the domes. The route is about 2 km and two to three hours; the cathedral admission is €2.50, Palazzo Castelluccio €12.50/free, and Chiesa di San Carlo Borromeo's tower €2.50.

Ragusa and Modica

Ragusa's upper modern town and lower Ragusa Ibla are linked by the Salita Commendatore staircase. Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Scale gives a view over the old and new towns; Duomo di San Giorgio sits on the sloping Piazza Duomo, and Giardino Ibleo provides a quieter finish. The Antico Mercato museum costs €6. Cinabro Carrettieri shows Sicilian cart makers at work.

Modica learned low-temperature chocolate making from the Aztec method introduced through Spanish rule. Its bars keep a grainy texture because sugar and spices are mixed into cold-worked cocoa. Museo del Cioccolato lists admission at €3; Antica Dolceria Bonajuto has made Modican sweets since 1880, while Caffè Adamo serves the chocolate as gelato. Try chilli, cinnamon, salt, wine or fruit versions and look for mpanatigghi, biscuits combining chocolate, spices and minced beef.

Pantalica, the Anapo and wine

Pantalica is a UNESCO World Heritage necropolis with more than 5,000 Iron and Bronze Age tombs in limestone cliffs. The old railway path is about 13 km, with shorter routes available; bring hiking shoes and swimwear for the Anapo river. Pantalica Experience guides are recommended. The Rossana Maiorca greenway follows a decommissioned railway north from Syracuse for 25 km return, passing cliffs, a ruined tuna fishery, Greek quarries, WWII bunkers and coves. At Targia, Azienda Agricola Pupillo offers daily 11am and 6pm tours at €10, or €15/35 with cheese or a meal. Cantine Pupillo makes Sicily's oldest wine, Moscato di Siracusa.

Lipari and the Aeolian chain

Lipari is the largest Aeolian island, with about 12,000 year-round residents and roughly twice that number in summer. It has two ports: transport hub Marina Lunga and the tiny historic Marina Corta. Greeks settled the island, which was destroyed by an earthquake in 365 BCE. Pumice, obsidian, volcanic deposits and pebble beaches shape its landscape and its crafts.

Lipari's citadel and transport

After Barbarossa's 1544 raid, Spanish rulers fortified the town. Castello di Lipari contains Cattedrale di San Bartolomeo, Palazzo Vescovile and Museo Archeologico Regionale Eoliano. The cathedral is free, its cloister €1, and the museum €7/3.50. The volcanic section explains sulphur, pumice, alum, obsidian and island geology. The Area Archeologica dell'Acropoli is free and hosts summer performances.

Liberty Lines ferries and hydrofoils use Marina Lunga. Rent scooters at Noleggio Foto, speedboats at Portosalvo, boats with or without a skipper through SamBoat, and bicycles or e-bikes through Bike Rental Lipari. Urso minibuses connect the villages; the return ticket to Spiaggia di Canneto is €2.50. Urso Bus, Noleggio Foto, Portosalvo and Bike Rental Lipari carry current details.

Beaches, boats and island food

Spiaggia Valle Muria is a pebbly beach below a steep 25-minute path from the SP179. Graniteria 'A Carusa Eoliana sells handmade mandarin, melon and fig granita for about €3.50. A boat taxi from Marina Corta turns the beach trip into a sunset sail past faraglioni with Vulcano smoking on the horizon. Lipari town options include Gilberto e Vera, where stuffed panini cost €6, La Bitta di Andrea & Maria, Osteria Liparota and Kasbah. Easter celebrations use candlelit processions, barefoot penitents and fireworks at Marina Corta.

Vulcano's crater and thermal water

Vulcano is about 10 minutes from Lipari by boat. Its 391 m Fossa di Vulcano produces sulphur fumes and the climb to the crater is 2.3 km. Traffic lights at the path entrance and another point 100 m higher indicate whether the route is safe; if the light is red or not working, do not continue. The last eruption was in 1888-1890.When the crater is closed, Vulcanello offers a 1.8 km route from Spiaggia Sabbie Nere to a viewpoint, with a final 600 m scramble over white pumice.

The old mud-pool site remains closed while a new spa is planned. Spiaggia delle Acque Calde has black shingle and milky turquoise shallows; a lounger costs €10 per day. Spiaggia Sabbie Nere is the boat-taxi base. Piscine Geotermiche by Marotta has three thermal pools, massage jets, hot tubs, loungers and a cafe; admission is €25/10 or half-day €15/10. Sicily in Kayak organises sea-kayak, SUP, snorkelling and coasteering.

Salina and Malvasia

Salina is the green, twin-peaked island with the Aeolian chain's most reliable freshwater springs. It produces Malvasia delle Lipari and prized capers. From Santa Marina Salina, a bus costing €1.90 reaches Lingua, 3 km away, where islanders sell capers, caper berries, turmeric and oregano. Monte Fossa delle Felci reaches 962 m and takes about 2.5 hours or 6.5 km to climb. Trasporti Salina publishes buses, while Rent Bongiorno rents a scooter for €15 per hour or €31 per day.

Azienda Agricola Carlo Hauner offers guided tastings of reds, whites and Malvasia delle Lipari Passito DOC. Greeks brought Malvasia grapes to Salina in 588 BCE; harvesters dry the grapes on reed mats for 15-20 days before pressing the sweet, amber wine. Top producers include Hauner, Virgona and Fenech. Da Alfredo in Lingua serves fruit granita with brioche; Paperò 'al Glicine' in Rinella makes ricotta granita with candied and toasted capers.

Alicudi and the island without roads

Alicudi covers only 5.2 sq km and has no roads. Stone steps climb towards Monte Montagnola at 675 m, with mules and wheelbarrows doing the carrying. The Filo dell'Arpa trail takes about two hours to the summit, passing Chiesa di San Bartolo. Swim from the port, then ask Salvatore about sunset drinks afloat. Wild goats outnumber the roughly 100 residents by about six to one, and island cooking includes stewed kid and goat with potatoes.

Stromboli after sunset

Stromboli's 924 m volcano sends bursts of red rock down the Sciara del Fuoco. The 290 m viewpoint can be reached alone, but a guide is required to continue to the 400 m viewpoint. Magmatrek lists a nine-kilometre, six-hour guided trek at €25/23. Walk two or three hours before sunset and return around 11pm. Wear closed shoes, carry a picnic and rent a head torch at Totem Trekking. L'Osservatorio, the famous viewpoint restaurant, should be checked for reopening before planning around it.

The Aeolian wall lizard is black, wrinkled and critically endangered, surviving only in small pockets of Vulcano, Salina, Filicudi and Strombolicchio. Do not disturb it. Lipari, Salina, Vulcano and Stromboli all have their own dining rhythms: from pane cunzato and fresh fish to Michelin-listed vegetarian cooking at I Tenerumi and island produce at Il Cappero.