Get prepared for Southern Italy - clothes, manners, words and culture
Pack for hot archaeological sites, uneven old-town streets and meals that run late. A few practical habits, useful words and carefully chosen cultural references make the south easier to read.
What to pack
Clothes
Smart casual is the useful middle ground. Shorts and T-shirts work for summer sightseeing, beaches and pizzerias, but long-sleeved shirts, trousers or a dress are better for restaurants, invitations to dinner and the opera. A blazer lets men dress up jeans or chinos without overpacking, and linen shirts are versatile in summer. Women may want a cocktail dress or trouser suit. Keep a scarf or shawl handy for covering shoulders and legs in churches.
Shoes and sun protection
High heels are awkward on cobblestones, so stylish flats are a safer choice. Every traveller should bring comfortable, supportive walking shoes for sightseeing and walks in nature. A broad-brimmed sunhat and sunglasses are essential in the warmer months: the southern sun is harsh, and archaeological sites often have little or no shade.
Manners that help
| Situation | What to do |
|---|---|
| Timekeeping | Expect people and plans to run late. |
| An invitation home | Fare bella figura matters. Bring wine or a tray of dolci, or sweets, when invited for a meal. |
| Supermarket produce | Use the disposable gloves provided for fruit and vegetables, then weigh the produce yourself so the scales print the price sticker. |
Read, watch and listen before you go
| Title | Creator and year | Why it fits |
|---|---|---|
| The Neapolitan Novels | Elena Ferrante, 2011-14 | A toxic friendship set against modern Naples and Ischia. |
| Sicilian Splendors | John Keahey, 2018 | An engaging Sicilian travelogue by an American journalist. |
| Christ Stopped at Eboli | Carlo Levi, 1945 | Poignant recollections of a writer exiled by fascists to a mountain village in Basilicata. |
| Gomorrah: Italy's Other Mafia | Roberto Saviano, 2008 | A frank examination of the Mafia as part of life in Naples. |
| Title | Creator and year | Why it fits |
|---|---|---|
| Il Postino | Michael Radford, 1994 | An exiled poet, Pablo Neruda, brings passion to a sleepy southern island. |
| Marriage, Italian-Style | Vittorio De Sica, 1964 | Sophia Loren plays a shrewd Neapolitan mistress in a comedy about a cynical businessman. |
| Cinema Paradiso | Giuseppe Tornatore, 1988 | A bittersweet story of a director returning to Sicily and rediscovering his first loves. |
| My Brilliant Friend | 2018-23 | A vivid novel-to-television adaptation that brings Naples and Ischia to the screen. |
| Title | Creator and year | Why it fits |
|---|---|---|
| Salvamm'o munno | Enzo Avitabile, 2004 | A Neapolitan singer-songwriter's meeting with the traditional bottari rhythm of southern Italy. |
| Mood Street | PeppOh, 2020 | Trap, hip hop and indie ballads from a contemporary Neapolitan rapper and soul musician. |
| The Platinum Collection | Carmen Consoli, 2017 | A broad introduction to Sicily's best-known singer-songwriter, honoured for her musical contribution. |
| Children of the Volcano | Ros Belford, 2024 | A vivid memoir of island life and a single mother building a new home on Salina. |
Pocket language
| Italian | Pronunciation | Use or meaning |
|---|---|---|
| Salve | SAHL-veh | The safest greeting when you are unsure how formal to be. Ciao is generally informal. |
| Come stai? / Come sta? | co-meh stye / co-meh stah | How are you? Use come sta? in formal situations. The standard answer is bene, grazie; insomma signals an exasperated or dissatisfied reply. |
| Piacere | pya-chair-eh | Literally pleasure, used for pleased to meet you. Per piacere and per favore both mean please. |
| Grazie | GRAHTS-yeh | Thank you. Mille grazie means 1000 thanks, while grazie infinite means infinite thanks. |
| Mi scusi | mee SKOO-zee | Excuse me, useful for getting attention or moving through a crowd. |
| Di niente | dee NYEN-teh | You are welcome. |
| Attenzione | ah-ten-SYOH-neh | Attention, often a warning about a vehicle or an obstacle. |
| Tesoro | teh-SAW-roh | Treasure, a term of affection between friends and lovers of any gender. |
| Pazzesco | pah-TZES-koh | Crazy. It can express positive amazement or disbelief at something unfortunate. |
| Guasto | GWAH-stoh | Broken or out of order, often posted on a vending machine or toilet door. |