Why the south?
Southern Italy is the classic romantic choice: villages stacked on cliffs (Positano, Amalfi, Ravello), turquoise water (Capri), a volcano (Vesuvius) and Sicily with its Greek temples and baroque towns. The atmosphere runs warmer than the north - in weather and in pace.
The key difference from the north: fewer trains. Much of southern travel happens by ferry, bus and short car hops - so plan one or two bases rather than hopping constantly.
Our route: 7-10 days
Days 1-3: Naples + Pompeii. Land in Naples, spend a day in the city (real pizza, Spaccanapoli, the Archaeological Museum) and a day at Pompeii or Herculaneum. Naples is gritty and fascinating - not a honeymoon base, but essential passing through. See our Naples guide.
Days 4-7: the Amalfi Coast. Sorrento is the practical base, Positano the prettiest and priciest, Ravello the quietest with the most dramatic views. Ferries connect the villages (the SITA bus is less pleasant), a day on Capri with the Blue Grotto, an evening up in Anacapri above the crowds.
Days 8-10: Sicily (optional). A domestic flight from Naples to Catania, then Taormina with its Greek theatre and Etna views. Only if you have ten days - Sicily deserves a week of its own.
- ✦Naples + Pompeii: 2-3 nights
- ✦Amalfi Coast (Sorrento/Positano/Ravello): 4-5 nights
- ✦Day trip to Capri: yes, take the ferry
- ✦Sicily/Taormina: 2-3 nights if you have time
Where to stay
Sorrento gives the best value: sea-view hotels at sane prices, easy access to the coast and to Naples. Positano costs two to three times as much - but if it's a special celebration, a room with a sea-facing terrace is the single moment the trip is about. Ravello (up top) is harder to reach but quietest and most romantic of all.
Don't sleep on Capri: very expensive, empty at night. Come for the day from the coast instead.
When to go
May to June: the best months. The sea has warmed, the crowds haven't arrived, prices are reasonable. September: the warmest water while tourists thin out. July-August: packed and hot - fine if you love company, but Positano in August is a different experience entirely. October: pleasant though ferries thin out, and many restaurants close in November.
What it costs
Seven nights in the south (2 Naples, 5 Amalfi Coast) for a couple in good hotels, including ferries, transfers and dinners: €3,000-5,000 excluding flights. Positano with a direct view: €6,000+. Sicily is significantly cheaper than the Amalfi Coast.
Planning help: what a trip to Italy costs, airports in Italy, and if you'd rather go north, our north Italy honeymoon route.
The honest advice
Don't rent a car for the Amalfi Coast - the SS163 road is a nightmare, parking barely exists, and the ferries are cheap and fast. Skip the SITA bus in high season: the buses fill completely; the ferry always wins. Pompeii: three hours is enough, and Herculaneum (smaller, better preserved) suits some couples better.
More guides: Naples and the islands, Italy with kids if it's a family trip rather than a honeymoon, and the tipping guide.
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