Pizza is sacred here, but so is sfogliatella, fried pizza and honest trattoria cooking. The city that invented the Margherita takes food seriously - and it shows.
The Margherita - tomato, mozzarella and basil - was born in Naples in 1889, and locals still treat it as a birthright. Beyond the pizzerias, look for sfogliatella (crisp shell pastries filled with ricotta), pizza fritta (fried and stuffed), and simple trattoria classics like pasta e patate. Coffee culture runs deep too: espresso is a standing ritual, drunk at the counter.
Since 1870 this legendary room has served exactly two pizzas - Margherita and Marinara - and nothing else. The dough is the draw: blistered, chewy and justly famous, starring in the film Eat Pray Love.
A family institution on the busiest food street in the old city, turning out a huge list of pizzas from a dough recipe handed down through three generations of the Sorbillo clan.
A no-frills classic since 1936, famous for its fried pizza (pizza fritta) as much as its oven-baked pies - the sort of place where visiting presidents have stopped for a slice.
A theatrical Spanish Quarter institution: singing waiters, loud banter and generous plates of Neapolitan home cooking. Come hungry and ready to laugh - this is dinner as performance.
One of the oldest pastry shops on Via Toledo and a shrine to the sfogliatella - the crisp, ricotta-filled shell that is Naples' great sweet. Grab one at the counter and eat it in the street.