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Around the piazza - Campanile, Fenice and the palazzi in Venice

Beyond the basilica and the Doge's Palace, the square's wider circuit holds plenty more: the medieval Clock Tower and the Campanile's dizzying views, the phoenix that is La Fenice, and the palazzi and churches of the western route.

Last updated August 6, 2026

In a nutshell: the Clock Tower and the Campanile frame the square, the Fenice rises from its ashes, and Palazzo Grassi, Museo Fortuny and the western-route churches complete the circuit. Start from the San Marco overview.

The Clock Tower and the Campanile

The Clock Tower (Torre dell'Orologio) stands at the gateway to the Mercerie - 'Marzarie' in the local dialect - the principal shopping thoroughfare linking the square to the Rialto Bridge. Erected during the Renaissance in 1496, it keeps traces of its blue-and-gold paint, a clue that this city once blazed with vivid color. The two bronze 'Moors' above, cast in 1499 as fair-skinned giants, have effectively 'changed ethnicity' as their metal has oxidized over the years; on every hour they raise and lower their great hammers (in the 1600s one of them knocked an unlucky workman off the tower to his death - quite possibly history's first robot-caused fatality). The dial tracks the 24 hours, the zodiac and, at its blue center, the lunar phases - essential intelligence for a seafaring town whose shallow lagoon demands constant attention to the tides. Above the dial hangs the world's first digital clock (installed in 1858), which snaps over dramatically every five minutes, and an alert winged lion - emblem of St. Mark and of the city - surveys the square from above, opening a book that reads 'Pax Tibi Marce' ('Peace to you, Mark'), the phrase an angel supposedly spoke to the weary evangelist during a stormy night on this island. To inspect the works you must reserve a 45-minute tour with a licensed escort (€13, which also admits you to the Correr Museum, the National Archaeological Museum and the Monumental Rooms of the Biblioteca Marciana; English tours Mon at 11:00, Tue-Wed at 14:00, Fri and Sun at 11:00 and 14:00; children under 6 not allowed; book via torreorologio.visitmuve.it or +39 041 4273 0892). The Campanile, rising 325 feet, served as the city's lookout and ranked among the glories of medieval and Renaissance engineering until 1902, when - after creaking ominously all night and scattering the café patrons - it crashed down into the square; the golden angel atop it came to rest upright, directly before the basilica's main door. Rebuilt a decade later with the gilded archangel Gabriel, who perpetually turns to face the wind, it now carries you by elevator to the top for one of the finest panoramas in Venice (try to be there when the bells toll for an ear-splitting moment). It costs €10 bought on site, or €12 with a timed-entry reservation that bypasses the line (reserve online in advance or scan the QR code at the entrance); hours run roughly 9:30-20:45 daily, shorter outside the season, and it closes in foul weather. Facing a long queue, you can skip it entirely: the near-twin bell tower of San Giorgio Maggiore - Palladio's dreamlike church island across the lagoon (church open daily 9:00-19:00, Nov-March 8:30-18:00, with paintings by Tintoretto; the island also houses the Giorgio Cini Foundation in the former Benedictine monastery, offering cloisters, gardens, a superb library and exhibitions in profound calm) - gives an even finer view with a fraction of the visitors.

The phoenix opera house

Venice's celebrated opera house, a short stroll west of the square, opened its doors in 1792 after fire destroyed the Teatro San Benedetto - and its name has proved grimly apt ever since. Rossini, Bellini and Donizetti all had operas staged on this very stage, and Verdi chose the house for the premieres of Rigoletto and of La Traviata; later Stravinsky, Prokofiev and, eventually, Britten wrote music for it. Flames gutted the building on 13 December 1836, ignited by a stove that had just been installed, and again on 29 January 1996, when two electricians were convicted of arson committed to escape fines for late work. Architect Aldo Rossi oversaw a faithful revival of the 19th-century interior, studying frames from Luchino Visconti's Senso to recover the original look. A recorded one-hour audio guide admits you to the gilded auditorium and its stucco topless figures, but the true experience is to catch a show: the season runs from January through July, then again from September to October, and cut-price last-minute seats occasionally turn up for the less famous productions. For clear sight lines, pass on second-row places in boxes at least three away from the centre box; at intermission, head to the more glamorous upstairs bar. La Fenice

Palazzo Grassi

Commanding the Grand Canal by San Samuele, the 18th-century Palazzo Grassi (vaporetto: San Samuele) stages star-studded temporary shows of contemporary art from around the globe, drawn largely from the collection of its owner, the French magnate François Pinault. Gae Aulenti, the postmodern architect, stripped back the rococo decoration to reveal Giorgio Masari's robust classicism, while Tadao Ando contributed luminous backlit screens and pinpoint spotlights. Budget about 90 minutes, finishing at the café terrace over the canal; admission (€18, reduced €15) also opens the doors of Punta della Dogana, its sibling museum across the water in Dorsoduro. In the basement, the Teatrino di Palazzo Grassi - a 225-seat theatre redesigned by Ando - programmes a lively roster of talks, lectures, avant-garde film screenings and concerts, most of them free and unbooked.

Museo Fortuny

In a 15th-century palazzo just west of St Mark's Square, the Museo Fortuny honours Mariano Fortuny, the Spanish-born designer whose Delphos dress - spun from ultra-fine pleated silk - dominated early-20th-century fashion, and who also transformed theatrical lighting and reproduced masterpieces by Goya and Tiepolo. The palazzo doubled as his home and workshop, a household he ran with Henriette Negrin - his wife, muse and dressmaker; today it is swathed in Fortuny velvets, hung with his celebrated lamps of silk and glass, and layered with photographs of family and friends. Allow 90 minutes, and follow the stairs from the main galleries down to the temporary exhibitions.

Two churches on the western route

Two churches on the route west of the square reward a detour. Santo Stefano, entered from its vast campo, raises a ship's-keel ceiling (carena di nave), the work of Venetian shipwrights, and the sacristy museum holds three brooding Tintorettos - a Last Supper in which a spectral dog pleads for bread, an Agony in the Garden, plus a Washing of the Feet of startling modernity - while a small cloister beyond shelters sculptures by Canova and the Lombardo family. Outside, where Calle del Spezier meets the square, three round scars in the paving mark the spots where cauldrons of teriaca once stood - the 'magic' cure-all that pharmacists kept brewing into the 18th century. Santa Maria del Giglio received its 17th-century makeover thanks to Antonio Barbaro, an admiral who stands on his own tomb chest above the doorway, flanked by four bewigged brothers; the facade carries carved maps of towns the Republic once ruled - Zadar, Split and the isle of Corfu among them. The church is most famous for the city's only Rubens, a voluptuous Madonna and Child; still, seek out the old organ shutters, painted by Tintoretto with the four evangelists, hidden behind the high altar. Both churches belong to the Chorus circuit (€3.50, reduced €2.50; the Chorus Pass costs €14/€10), along with San Zaccaria, the Miracoli and Veronese's San Sebastiano in Dorsoduro.

Above the rooftops

Three viewpoints beat the piazza crowds. The Scala Contarini del Bovolo (€8, reduced €6), a spiral staircase in the Gothic manner, hidden off Campo Manin on the way to the Rialto, pays for its 112 shallow steps with a slow reveal - rooftop terraces first, then the Campanile's tip, the basilica's onion domes, La Salute's cupola and, when the sky is clear, the Alps. Up on Fondaco dei Tedeschi department store's roof, built in 1506 as the German merchants' trading hall, the view hangs right over the Rialto Bridge, the Grand Canal unrolling below with the serrated Dolomites beyond; 15-minute slots are free but must be reserved online - and in high season, weeks in advance. And for architecture buffs, Carlo Scarpa's 1958 redesign of the Negozio Olivetti - a narrow showroom under the Procuratie Vecchie arcades, commissioned by the typewriter pioneer - is a Modernist pilgrimage: a floating staircase, a glass-mosaic floor, eye-shaped portholes and a fountain of black slab marble, a nod to acqua alta. Negozio Olivetti (€10, reduced €6).

Casino Venier and the concert halls

Behind the Mercerie, a green door under the arcade near Ponte dei Bareteri hides one of Venice's few intact casini - private rooms where the upper crust once gathered to gamble and flirt. Ring the Alliance Française buzzer at Casino Venier (visits by donation) and climb into a jewel box of original 18th-century stucco work, frescoes and mirrors: hunt for the peephole hidden in the geometric floor of the main hall, which the lady of the house once used to vet arrivals, plus a concealed way out in the right-hand room nearest the door. Gambling ran deep in Venetian life - once the Republic collapsed, the city still counted 136 casini and ridotti, and Verdi marked Rigoletto's debut with celebrations at Ridotto San Moisè in 1851. For music, the Interpreti Veneziani ensemble (€32, reduced €26) plays Vivaldi and baroque repertoire most evenings in the San Vidal church, just off the Accademia Bridge, while the Conservatorio di Musica Benedetto Marcello, in the second-largest palazzo in Venice, on the far side of Campo Santo Stefano, offers free recitals by its students between September and early July - no booking needed, just check the schedule and arrive about 20 minutes early.