Friends of Israel
Venice guideVenice · Restaurants & bacari

Restaurants & bacari, area by area in Venice

The full shortlist of places to eat and drink in Venice, grouped by neighbourhood: bacari near the Rialto, trattorias around St. Mark's, Dorsoduro's osterias, Cannaregio's bars, splurges with a view, market picnics and gelato. The [where to eat chapter](where-to-eat) explains the habits and the traps before you go.

Last updated August 8, 2026

Near the Rialto

The lanes around the Rialto Bridge hold the densest concentration of good eating in the city, from serious restaurants just off the Strada Nova to market-side snack bars. The first group sits north of the bridge in Cannaregio - proper restaurants where a table should be booked in advance.

Trattoria da BepiTrattoria · Upmarket

Salizada Pistor, near Campo Santi Apostoli

A bright, wood-paneled classic run with obvious pride - the current owner carries on his mother's passion for traditional Venetian cooking and the freshest ingredients. Comfortable seating both inside and out, half a block off Santi Apostoli.

AddressCampo
HoursFri–Wed 12:00–15:00 & 19:00–22:00, closed Thu
Order: Old-school Venetian dishes from daily-sourced ingredients

Trattoria Ca' d'Oro Alla VedovaTrattoria · Moderate

Cannaregio, near the Ca' d'Oro vaporetto stop

A venerable local favorite respected for its traditional cuisine. It is compact yet romantic: a tiny cicchetti bar by the door where regulars stand and sip, and dressy tables squeezed into the tight quarters beyond. From the Ca' d'Oro stop, cross the Strada Nova and follow the small lane to del Pistor.

AddressCalle
HoursFri–Wed 11:00–14:30 & 18:30–22:30, closed Thu
Order: Venetian classics plus a door-side cicchetti bar

Vini da GigioFine dining · Luxury

Campo San Felice, Cannaregio

The pricier option on this stretch: a traditional Venetian menu served in a classy but genuinely welcoming room that mixes old and contemporary touches. Four blocks from the Ca' d'Oro stop on San Felice, behind the church on Campo San Felice.

AddressFondamenta
HoursWed–Sun 12:00–14:30 & 19:00–22:30, closed Mon–Tue
Order: A refined take on the classic Venetian repertoire

Taverna al RemerFine dining · Luxury

Cannaregio, 100 m from the Rialto Bridge

Hidden down an unmarked alley, this hideaway opens onto its own little courtyard on the Grand Canal, 100 meters from the Rialto Bridge. You dine by candlelight under brick vaults and old timbers, often to mellow live jazz, and the Venetian mixed-fish appetizer plate is a hit. Find it via the lane between Burger King and Bacaro Bar, near San Giovanni Crisostomo church. tavernaremer.com.

HoursWed–Mon 12:00–14:30 & 19:00–22:30, closed Tue
Order: The mixed-fish antipasto platter

East of the bridge, in the tangle of lanes running toward Campo Santa Maria Formosa, the pace gets quicker and cheaper - a neighborhood cafeteria, a couple of small osterias and a great market-side cicchetti crawl.

Rosticceria GislonCasual · Moderate

Calle de la Bissa, near Campo San Bartolomeo

A neighborhood institution - a tavola calda where you pick hot cooked dishes straight from the buffet line in a bright, practical diner: salads, fried mozzarella, pastas, seafood and more, all at fair prices. From San Bartolomeo, follow the neon-green Rosticceria sign through the passageway.

AddressCampo
Order: Buffet-line Venetian comfort food, quick and cheap

Osteria I RusteghiCicchetti bar · Moderate

Corte dei Tentor 5513, near Campo San Bartolomeo

More than a rough cicchetti bar - an enoteca gastronomica pairing fine dishes with fine wines, a serious by-the-glass list and a jazzy interior on its own tiny, tranquil square.

AddressCorte dei Tentor 5513
HoursDaily
Order: Fine wines by the glass

Bar SEPACicchetti bar · Moderate

Calle della Bissa, near Campo San Bartolomeo

A modern little bar drawing a young crowd with good, clearly priced cicchetti - push past the smokers at the door for a spot at the stand-up barrel inside, since there's no table seating.

AddressCalle della Bissa
HoursDaily
Order: Good, clearly priced cicchetti

Bacarando BarCicchetti bar · Moderate

Corte dell'Orso 5495, near Campo San Bartolomeo

Old school, with clearly marked and priced little dishes at the counter and two floors of table seating.

AddressCorte dell'Orso 5495
HoursDaily
Order: Clearly marked and priced little dishes at the counter

Osteria al PortegoTrattoria · Moderate

Near Campo San Lio, Castello

A small, hugely popular neighborhood eatery where the house wine is a bargain and the cicchetti (€1–4) are excellent - best around 18:00, picked over by 21:00. The six tables are reserved for diners ordering from the blackboard-fresh menu, so book if you want to sit. Daily 11:30–15:00 & 17:30–22:00, on de la Malvasia at Castello 6015.

AddressCalle
Order: Excellent cheap cicchetti and blackboard-fresh dinners

Osteria da AlbertoTrattoria · Moderate

Calle Larga Giacinto Gallina, Cannaregio

A long-standing standby midway between Santi Apostoli and Campo San Zanipolo, next to the Ponte de la Panada bridge. Locals fill it at lunch, visitors in the evening; the woody, characterful rooms serve excellent daily specials of seafood and pasta with a good house wine. Reserve at night and ask for the front room. Daily 12:00–15:00 & 18:30–22:00, Cannaregio 5401.

AddressCampo
Order: Daily seafood and pasta specials

The cicchetti strip

Two blocks inland from the Rialto Market, a 100-yard stretch along Sotoportego dei Do Mori and Calle de le Do Spade is the city's classic cicchetti crawl: rough-edged bars serving wine by the glass and toothpick snacks, at their best around noon. Expect about €1 for an ombra of house wine, around €3 for something finer, and about €2 per cicchetto. They get unworkably crowded later in the evening, most serve food all day, and a couple work fine as sit-down restaurants from their rustic menus.

The four bars of the cicchetti strip
BarVibeDetails
Bar all'ArcoBusy one-room jointMostly crostini, small open-faced sandwiches; Thu–Tue 10:00–14:30, closed Wed; Campo San Polo 436
Cantina Do MoriStoried, gruff, atmosphericToothpick snacks and francobolli - tiny mayo-laced sandwiches nicknamed 'stamps'; Mon–Sat 8:00–19:30, closed Sun; Calle Do Mori, San Polo 430
Osteria ai StortiSit-down friendlyTables inside and on the street, €2 fried bites, a 1909 photo of the market on the wall; San Polo 819
Cantina Do SpadeOld schoolClearly listed cicchetti (mostly deep-fried) and wines of the day; also good for restaurant-style sit-down meals; +39 041 521 0583, San Polo 860

Cantina Do MoriCicchetti bar · Budget

Calle Do Mori, near Rialto

The most storied bar on the strip, serving since 1462 - a dark, atmospheric room with a staggering spread of toothpick snacks and francobolli, the tiny mayo-laced sandwiches nicknamed 'stamps.' The famously gruff service is part of the experience. One warning: the prices add up quickly, so keep an eye on what you take. 430.

AddressSan Polo
HoursMon–Sat 8:00–19:30, closed Sun
Order: Francobolli and an ombra of house wine

Cantina Do SpadeCicchetti bar · Budget

San Polo, near Rialto

A historic bacaro where Casanova used to eat - the current owner lists his cicchetti (mostly deep-fried) and the wines of the day on a board, and the room works just as well for a standing snack as for a proper sit-down meal. Thirty yards from Osteria ai Storti down de le Do Spade, San Polo 860.

AddressCalle
Order: Deep-fried cicchetti and polpette (meatballs)

The Bancogiro stretch

Just past the Rialto Bridge, where the lanes open between Campo San Giacomo and the Grand Canal, a row of places fronts a former banking building - some of the best canalside seating in Venice. All serve drinks, cicchetti and somewhat pricey sit-down meals; dinner typically starts only after 19:00 or 19:30, and between mealtimes you can enjoy a drink or a snack at fine prices. This is one of the best spots in town for a pre- or post-dinner spritz, and the alleys behind turn into a young, trendy night scene after dark.

  • Bar Naranzaria ($$$) - Italian dishes at the friendliest prices on the stretch, open-faced sandwiches and wines by the glass; closed Mon
  • Caffè Vergnano ($$) - the cheapest option at mealtimes: pasta, salads, pizza, vegetarian dishes and a busy microwave; long hours daily
  • Osteria al Pesador ($$$) - a more extensive menu with friendly service and local specialties, plus upstairs seating; open daily
  • Al Mercà Bar ($) - a lively little nook off the canal where office workers lunch and young locals gather at night; quality wine by the glass and €2 mini-sandwiches, clear price list, no interior - stand at the bar or in the square; Mon–Sat 10:00–14:30 & 18:00–21:00, closed Sun; Campo Bella Vienna, San Polo 213

Osteria BancogiroFine dining · Upmarket

Grand Canal, near San Giacomo di Rialto

The most sophisticated menu on the stretch and the best reputation for dinner, with a real passion for cheese - including a fine cheese plate - and good cicchetti at the bar. There's proper fine dining upstairs. Closed Mon; reservations are smart.

Order: Cheese plates and refined canalside dinners

Around the Rialto Market

Trattoria alla MadonnaTrattoria · Upmarket

Calle della Madonna, San Polo

An old-school favorite frequented by retired locals who appreciate its traditional dishes - mostly seafood - served by formal waiters on white tablecloths in a relaxing old-Venetian room. Big and spacious for Venice, with high ceilings; dining is inside only. Lunch from 12:00, dinner from 19:00, closed Wed; on a quiet lane two blocks from the Rialto Bridge, 594.

AddressSan Polo
Order: Classic lagoon seafood, served the old way

Ristorante Vini da PintoTrattoria · Moderate

Campo de le Becarie, San Polo

A tourist-friendly spot facing the fish market with a large menu, relaxing outdoor seating and a dressy, spacious interior. The owner visits the market each morning to pick the day's best catch. Their lunch-only fixed-price seafood meal is €18 - pasta, a seafood sampler and veggies - with grander versions at €25; dinner is à la carte. Daily 11:00–23:00, 367a. When seated outside, make sure your table belongs to the restaurant.

AddressSan Polo
Order: The €18 three-course seafood lunch

Osteria al Ponte StortoTrattoria · Moderate

Calle Bianca from San Aponal church, San Polo 1278

A little corner place on a quiet canal a block off the main drag, with good-value fish dishes and a small handwritten menu that changes with the daily specials - the neighborhood's corner favorite.

AddressCalle Bianca, San Polo 1278
HoursMon–Sat 12:00–15:00 & 18:00–21:45, closed Sun
Order: Good-value fish dishes from the daily specials

Between the Rialto and the Frari

Trattoria Antiche CarampaneFine dining · Luxury

Rio Terà delle Carampane, San Polo

A dressy, family-run place with an open kitchen and a devoted local following. The passion here is fish - they make a point of serving no pizza - in traditional Venetian dishes with a fresh, seasonal twist. It is tiny: just 30 seats, with six tables on the street. 1911.

AddressSan Polo
HoursTue–Sat 12:45–14:30 & 19:30–22:30, closed Sun–Mon; reservations are necessary
Order: Seasonal seafood with a modern twist

Antica Birraria la CorteCasual · Moderate

Campo San Polo 2168

Huge array of pizzas plus hearty salads, pastas and secondi on the far side of the family-friendly square - the joy is eating on the square itself, where metal tables teeter on the cobbles.

AddressCampo San Polo 2168
HoursDaily 12:00–15:00 & 18:00–22:30
Order: A huge array of pizzas

Near St. Mark's Square

Apart from one serious restaurant, most of what you'll find within sight of the square is cheap-and-cheery fuel for sightseeing. A few paces beyond the tourist orbit, the options get genuinely good.

Ristorante Antica SacrestiaFine dining · Luxury

Calle Corona, Castello

A classic where the owner greets guests personally and the kitchen turns out creative fixed-price meals (€37, €52 or €80), a simple menù del giorno and wonderful pizzas. Order à la carte and the antipasto spread looks like a lagoon aquarium on a plate. There's no wine by the glass, so choose carefully - pizza is the budget escape.

AddressCastello
HoursTue–Sun 11:30–15:00 & 18:00–23:00, closed Mon; behind San Giovanni Novo church, Castello 4463
Order: Fixed-price creative menus and excellent pizza

Al Giardinetto da SeverinoTrattoria · Upmarket

Salizada Zorzi, Castello

Traditional Venetian fare - proudly no pizza - with a homey-dressy vibe: white-tablecloth elegance inside and a big, peaceful garden filled with tables out back. The staff works hard to deliver a memorable, romantic dinner, rare at this price. Off Ruga Giuffa on Zorzi, Castello 4928.

AddressSalizada
HoursFri–Wed 12:00–15:00 & 19:00–22:00, closed Thu; reservations are smart
Order: Classic Venetian cooking in a hidden garden

RossopomodoroCasual · Moderate

Calle Larga San Marco 404

A big, fun, practical pizzeria with Naples-style wood-oven pizzas, hearty salads and pastas at good prices - a very handy location.

AddressCalle Larga San Marco 404
HoursLong hours daily
Order: Naples-style wood-oven pizzas

L'Ombra del LeoneCasual · Upmarket

Calle Ridotto past the Biennale archway, Ca' Giustinian behind San Moisè Church

A big, modern, classy bar with an elegant terrace right on the Grand Canal - ask for the reasonably priced bar menu of salads and sandwiches, since the restaurant menu, while excellent, is pricey.

AddressCa' Giustinian, Calle Ridotto

Quick lunch behind St. Mark's Basilica

The best value this close to the tourist epicenter is a couple of blocks behind the basilica, on or near Campo Santi Filippo e Giacomo. Entering from St. Mark's, Birreria Penasa is on the left, Aciugheta a few steps beyond, and Birreria Forst half a block farther down Calle de le Rasse.

  • Birreria Penasa ($) - fast and practical, slamming out slate plates of cheap toasted sandwiches and beer; point at what looks good at the bar, then watch the parade of tourists from theater-style seating; daily 7:00–24:00, +39 041 523 7202
  • Aciugheta ($$) - handy for lunch or a casual dinner with great indoor and outdoor seating; they take quality seriously with their pizzas and cicchetti (check the display under glass at the bar); the inside is an oasis of quiet, the outside a great perch on the corner of the lively square; daily 12:00–24:00, +39 041 522 4292
  • Birreria Forst ($) - meaty sandwiches with a tasty sauce on wheat bread, or made-to-order; order at the bar and grab a rustic wooden table in the busy little dining room; daily 9:30–23:00, air-con, Calle de le Rasse #4540, +39 041 523 0557

Fine dining near Campo Santa Maria Formosa

Osteria alle TestiereFine dining · Luxury

Calle del Mondo Novo, Castello

One of Venice's most loved small restaurants, and our favorite splurge in the city. The kitchen serves creative, artfully presented market-fresh seafood - there's no meat on the menu - with homemade pastas and fine wine in a style the chef calls 'Venetian Nouvelle.' With just 22 seats it's tight and homey, with daily specials and ten wines by the glass. They book up far in advance: lunch 12:00–15:00 and two dinner seatings at 19:00 and 21:30; budget around €75 for dinner. Closed Sun–Mon, just off Santa Maria Formosa, Castello 5801.

AddressCampo
Order: The day's catch, artfully presented

Osteria di Santa MarinaFine dining · Luxury

Near Campo Santa Marina, Castello

The spot for a dressy meal among locals: creative gourmet Venetian cooking that is both traditional and innovative. More spacious than most Venetian places, with comfortable seating on the square and a fine, characterful dining room inside. Mains around €30, a €65 tasting menu. Tue–Sat 12:30–14:30 & 19:30–23:00, closed Sun–Mon; northwest of Santa Maria Formosa, off Calle del Frutariol at Castello 5911.

AddressCampo
Order: Gourmet Venetian tasting menu

Harry's BarFine dining · Luxury

Calle Vallaresso, San Marco

The 1931 birthplace of the Bellini and the carpaccio, frequented by Hemingway - an essential cultural stop, even just for a drink at the bar.

Order: A Bellini at the bar (the original recipe)

Caffè FlorianCasual · Upmarket

Piazza San Marco

Founded in 1720, the oldest coffee house in continuous operation in Italy. The orchestra, the gilt salons and the piazza view are the show.

Order: Coffee and pastries under the arcades of the piazza

Dorsoduro

Dorsoduro is the neighborhood worth walking to - everything below sits within ten minutes of the Accademia Bridge. The places near the Accademia are best for lunch, the ones near Campo San Barnaba for dinner, and the Zattere promenade gets its own section next. The area around Campo Santa Margarita is the pick for a casual, youthful scene.

Cantine del Vino Già SchiaviCicchetti bar · Budget

Fondamenta Nani, Dorsoduro

A wonderfully characteristic cicchetti bar with inexpensive snacks, sandwiches from the board and good wine - enjoy them at the bar, in the back room surrounded by wine bottles, or on the sidewalk (ask for 'fuori' and you'll get plastic cups; don't sit on the bridge). It's primarily a wine shop, so bottles to go are great value. Mon–Sat 8:30–20:30, closed Sun; 100 yards from the Accademia on the San Trovaso canal, 992. No WC.

AddressDorsoduro
Order: Cheap cicchetti, sandwiches and wine to go

Bar FoscariniCasual · Moderate

Rio Terà A. Foscarini, Dorsoduro 878c, next to the Accademia Bridge

Right next to the Accademia Bridge: edible pizzas and panini with a Grand Canal view - food is forgettable and drinks pricey, but you're paying for the most memorable seat in the area; they also do breakfast.

AddressRio Terà A. Foscarini, Dorsoduro 878c
HoursDaily 8:00–23:00 (until 20:30 November–April)

Al Vecio MarangonTrattoria · Upmarket

Calle de la Toletta 1210, about 100 yards west of the Accademia

A stylishly rustic corner spot 100 yards west of the Accademia, serving cicchetti-style dishes and pastas in a picturesque, extremely tight interior or at outdoor tables. No reservations - arrive early.

AddressCalle de la Toletta 1210
HoursDaily 12:00–22:00
Order: The piatto di cicchetti misti - sardines, octopus, codfish and seafood salad

Ristoteca OnigaTrattoria · Moderate

Campo San Barnaba, Dorsoduro

An eclectic yet cozy spot with great tables on the square. The menu has a few vegetarian and meat dishes but focuses on fresh fish and other sea creatures - the signature is the bucintoro, a pan loaded with mussels, clams, prawns, calamari and spaghetti, prepared for two at a premium price. Daily 12:00–14:30 & 19:00–22:30; reservations are smart. San Barnaba, Dorsoduro 2852.

AddressCampo
Order: The bucintoro - a seafood-loaded pan for two

Osteria Enoteca ai ArtistiTrattoria · Moderate

Fondamenta de la Toletta 1169a, near Campo San Barnaba

Well-presented quality dishes in a tight, wine-focused interior or at a few petite canal-side tables - say canal or inside when you book. Great pasta, cheese plates and fish.

AddressFondamenta de la Toletta 1169a
HoursTue–Sat 12:45–14:30 & 19:00–22:00, closed Sun–Mon
Order: Great pasta, cheese plates and fish with wines by the glass

Pizzeria al ProfetaCasual · Budget

Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2671

Casual and popular with tourists for great pizza, with a sprawling interior and a leafy garden out back.

AddressCalle Lunga San Barnaba 2671
HoursDaily 12:00–14:30 & 19:00–22:30
Order: Great pizza

Enoteca e Trattoria la BittaTrattoria · Moderate

Calle Lunga San Barnaba 2753a

Dark and woody with a homey bistro feel: beautifully presented traditional Venetian food - proudly no fish - from a handwritten daily menu of local ingredients like rabbit, with a slow-food ethic. Dinner only.

AddressCalle Lunga San Barnaba 2753a
HoursDinner only, seatings at 19:00 and 21:00, closed Sun
Order: Handwritten daily menu of local ingredients - proudly no fish

Campo Santa Margarita

For a fresh, youthful, neighborhood vibe away from the cutesy center, hike out to Campo Santa Margarita: a multigenerational slice-of-life scene by day and a trendy college-bar scene after dark. The square is ringed by bakeries, pubs, pizzerias and fruit stands. If slumming, a picnic or takeout pizza on the square - with its fine benches and trees - is great. The area gets a little sketchy late at night.

  • Osteria alla Bifora ($$) - a former butcher shop serving creative plates of mixed cold cuts in a candlelit, woody interior or at tables on the square; almost only cold platters, but the presentation is elegant and pairs delightfully with wine, from rustic cicchetti plates of sardines, anchovies and cod to fine salamis and cheeses; daily 12:00–24:00, #2930, +39 041 523 6119
  • Osteria Do Torri ($$$) - tables overlooking the action; your best bet for standard Venetian dishes on the square; daily, #3408, +39 041 522 0686
  • The square's hole-in-the-wall cicchetti bars - drinks and snack plates for local eaters with a contagious love of life; best gelato on the square at Gelateria Il Doge

Zattere

The Fondamenta Zattere is a wide promenade along the Giudecca Canal with special charm on warm summer evenings. Come here not for the food but to dine on the water - each of these places has a big terrace literally on the canal, and nearby the popular Nico Gelateria has floating seating on the water.

  • Terrazza dei Nobili ($$$) - regional specialties, especially fish, plus pizza at tolerable prices, taking full advantage of the warm evening sun; breezy seaside seating with formal service and the rumble of vaporetti from the nearby stop; daily 12:00–24:00, at the Zattere vaporetto stop, Dorsoduro 924, +39 041 520 6895
  • Pizzeria Oke ($$) - playful, with casual tables on the embankment and a sprawling pizza-parlor interior; a hit with young Venetians; one warning - check the bill, since dishes presented as free may end up on it; daily 11:30–23:00, Dorsoduro 1414, +39 041 520 6601
  • Pizzeria alle Zattere ($$) - enjoy your pizza on a floating dining barge right next to the Zattere stop; Wed–Mon 12:00–22:00, closed Tue, Dorsoduro 791a, +39 041 520 4224

Cannaregio

Diners wanting to get off the beaten path head to Cannaregio, northeast of the train station. The two zones below - near the Jewish Ghetto and along the main drag - are about a ten-minute walk apart. The Ghetto neighborhood is more residential than touristic, laid out on a straight grid with spacious canalside walks; it's most peaceful at sunset, and worth the long walk for a look before you eat.

Osteria L'Orto dei MoriFine dining · Upmarket

Campo dei Mori, Cannaregio

A chic place serving nicely presented, creative Venetian cuisine. Eat in the elegant, modern interior or on a lovely neighborhood square with ten tables surrounded by a classic scene of wellhead, bridges and canal. Smart to reserve for dinner.

AddressFondamenta
HoursWed–Mon 12:30–15:30 & 19:00–24:00, closed Tue; on Fondamenta dei Mori, Cannaregio 3386
Order: Creative Venetian plates on a picture-perfect square

Osteria ai 40 LadroniTrattoria · Moderate

Fondamenta de la Sensa near Calle del Capitello, Cannaregio 3253

A characteristic, unpretentious old standby - 'The 40 Thieves' - with a few tables on the canal, a rustic interior and a convivial garden out back; the action is near the bar.

AddressFondamenta de la Sensa, Cannaregio 3253
HoursTue–Sun 12:00–14:30 & 19:00–22:15, closed Mon
Order: Mixed seafood antipasti

Osteria Enoteca TimonCicchetti bar · Moderate

Fondamenta Ormesini, a block past the Ghetto, Cannaregio 2754

A relaxing canalside setting with a hipster vibe, nice wines and cicchetti, a block past the Ghetto.

AddressCannaregio 2754
Order: Wines and cicchetti on the canal

Trattoria Al MarinerTrattoria · Moderate

One bridge east of Timon, Cannaregio 2679

A fun eatery one bridge east of Timon, with a rustic interior and romantic canalside tables serving delightful local dishes.

AddressCannaregio 2679
HoursMon–Sat 7:00–24:00, closed Sun

Gam KosherCasual · Moderate

Under the Sotoportego del Gheto Vechio, Cannaregio 1122

Your best bet for all-kosher Venetian dishes with canalside seating - the interior is forgettable but the canal tables make the meal memorable, and the vegetarian options are great.

AddressSotoportego del Gheto Vechio, Cannaregio 1122
HoursSun–Thu 12:00–22:00; Fri until two hours before Shabbat; Sat from one hour after Shabbat to 23:00

Pizzeria VesuvioCasual · Moderate

Rio Terà Farsetti, Cannaregio 1837, near the San Marcuola stop

A neighborhood favorite a few steps from the San Marcuola stop, with classy indoor seating and pleasant tables outside.

AddressRio Terà Farsetti, Cannaregio 1837
HoursDaily 11:00–23:00, closed Wed October–April

Enoteca Cicchetteria Do ColonneCicchetti bar · Moderate

Rio Terà del Cristo, Cannaregio 1814

A local dive with a loyal following and a good spread of cicchetti and sandwiches - no hot food. The food is mediocre but the scene, at the bar and the tables outside, feels real and fun.

AddressRio Terà del Cristo, Cannaregio 1814
HoursDaily 10:00–21:30
Order: Cicchetti and sandwiches - no hot food

Where the locals drink

The bar scene fans out across the sestieri: grand hotel cocktail lounges and the orchestras that play in Piazza San Marco's historic cafés in the centre, aperitivo crowds on Campo San Stefano, and in Dorsoduro the famously boozy square of Campo Santa Margherita, which comes closest to a nightlife hub. San Polo's tiny lanes shelter a handful of the city's most venerable bacari, while Santa Croce leans studenty, with relaxed by-the-glass spots on its campi where regulars outnumber visitors. Cannaregio threads a chain of natural-wine venues and craft-brew taps along its sun-drenched waterways, Castello mixes neighbourhood bars with scruffy party venues, and when the heat arrives the action migrates to the Lido's beach clubs. A useful rule of thumb for opening times: most cafés and bars run from around 7:00 to about 19:00, some keeping on until 23:00; bacari usually start pouring at 11:00 or midday and shut between 22:00 and 23:00; cocktail lounges and pubs tend to wind down around 1:00.

Vino VeroCicchetti bar · Moderate

Fondamenta della Misericordia, Cannaregio

A tiny canalside wine bar where the stools spill onto the fondamenta and the list leans biodynamic and low-intervention. Staff pour unusual drops by the glass alongside a small spread of cicchetti, and the waterfront position makes it one of Cannaregio's most atmospheric stops on a warm evening.

Order: Biodynamic and natural drops poured on the water's edge

Il Santo BevitoreCasual · Moderate

Cannaregio

The city's most dedicated craft-beer address: 21 taps pour artisan brews from small breweries like Birrificio Barbaforte of Trentino-Alto Adige and the Veneto's Crak, Lucky Brews and LZO, alongside house spirits distilled with lagoon herbs. It also runs the Venice Beer Fest each year, a three-day showcase of Italy's most inventive craft brewers.

Order: Two dozen craft taps and lagoon-herb house spirits

Vineria all'AmaroneCicchetti bar · Moderate

Santa Croce, near Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio

A neighbourhood favourite close to Campo San Giacomo dell'Orio pouring an extensive by-the-glass rotation, with thoughtfully put-together flights for those who want to taste their way through a grape or a region. Cicchetti come from a small kitchen that changes with the day's shopping.

Order: By-the-glass pours and guided tasting flights

5000Cicchetti bar · Budget

Castello, near Campo Santa Maria Formosa

A tiny canalside room on a pocket-sized square where the short Veneto list is served by the glass and prices stay friendly. The deck spills onto the water, which makes it an easy spot for a quiet ombra away from the crowds.

Order: Local wines poured beside the water at a pocket-sized square

Bar LonghiCasual · Luxury

Gritti Palace, Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, San Marco

The Gritti Palace's wood-panelled cocktail lounge, long regarded as the most beautiful bar in Venice. The Bellini here follows the original method - in-season only, built on fresh white-peach purée rather than canned - and the martinis are impeccable, best enjoyed from a table facing the Grand Canal.

Order: The traditional in-season Bellini and Grand Canal views

Arts BarCasual · Luxury

St Regis Venice, Grand Canal, San Marco

The cocktail lounge of the St Regis Venice, where drinks are crafted as tributes to local art and architecture. Expect inventions like a smoky mezcal base shaken with orange curaçao and Fino sherry, plus a house-made artichoke cordial from Sant'Erasmo, inspired by a Banksy mural.

Order: Location-specific cocktails inspired by Venetian art

Osteria SalvmeriaCicchetti bar · Moderate

Castello

A low-key neighbourhood bacaro in Castello with an interesting, frequently rotating list of pours and honest cicchetti to match. Regulars drift in for a glass and a plate at the counter, keeping the mood relaxed and local.

Order: Rotating pours and honest counter-side cicchetti
  • La Sette - a hip wine bar pouring small-production bottles alongside seriously good cicchetti (maps)
  • Malvasia all'Adriatico Mar - low-intervention wines drawn from around the Adriatic basin, poured at small scale (maps)
  • Experimental Cocktail Club - inventive mixed drinks in a sleek setting in Dorsoduro (Experimental Group)
  • Library Bar inside Nolinski Venezia - a refined San Marco cocktail lounge with a bibliophile's mood
  • Marciano Pub - Cannaregio pub famous for gourmet burgers and cask ales alike (maps)

Coffee breaks

Coffee reached Venice early - the city counts among Europe's pioneering coffee capitals, a habit carried in from the Ottoman world - and the rituals survive. Most locals knock back their espresso upright at the counter, which is quicker and cheaper than table service, and the macchiatone, espresso topped with a generous splash of hot milk, is a favourite order. After 11:00, cappuccino all but disappears from Venetian counters, and it never accompanies a meal.

Cafés and roasters worth a detour
SpotWhat to know
Rosa SalvaSilky espresso, just-baked pastries and terrace seats on Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo
Caffè RossoThe artsy old-timer of Campo Santa Margherita, scruffy and beloved (maps)
Pasticceria RizzardiniTiny standing-room-only pastry shop in San Polo, going strong since 1742 (maps)
Torrefazione CannaregioSingle-origin beans, specialty blends plus Third Wave brewing beside a Cannaregio canal (maps)
MajerQuality local chain that roasts its own coffee, with fine brioche and outdoor tables in the Ghetto for watching the square go by
Il Caffè del DogeRoaster with a devoted following for its carefully sourced espresso
Caffè GiraniHistoric Venetian roaster, still a favourite for a proper cup

Splurge with a view

A meal with a canal view generally comes with lower quality and/or a higher price - but these places make the premium worthwhile. Reserve ahead and choose your seat carefully.

Ristorante LineadombraFine dining · Luxury

Fondamenta Zattere, Dorsoduro

Immediately behind La Salute church, with commanding Giudecca Canal views from a big floating terrace and a spacious, modern, dressy interior. This Michelin-rated place is a gourmet treat: gorgeously presented dishes that are local and modern at the same time, each one a memory. Plates are pricey but sharing is welcome - the big appetizers come happily split onto two smaller plates. Reserve ahead and choose inside or the terrace. Daily 12:00–15:00 & 19:00–22:00, closed Tue off-season; a short walk behind La Salute from the Salute stop, 19.

AddressDorsoduro
Order: Michelin-rated lagoon views from a floating terrace

Ristorante AlgiubagiòFine dining · Luxury

Fondamente Nove, Cannaregio

On Fondamente Nove, handy to the docks for Murano and Burano, this is a great place to eat while looking over the northern lagoon. The name joins the four owners - Alberto, Giulio, Barbara and Giovanna - who push for quality, creative Venetian cuisine made with the best ingredients. Reserve a waterside table or sit in the classy cantina dining room. Daily 12:00–15:00 & 19:00–22:30, between the two sets of vaporetto docks, 5039.

AddressCannaregio
Order: Creative lagoon cuisine over the northern water

Gran Caffè QuadriFine dining · Luxury

Piazza San Marco

The place to dine fine on Venice's main square. Upstairs is the Michelin-starred Quadri restaurant; the Quadrino bistro below shares the same kitchen with a more traditional, accessible menu and prices that won't ruin your appetite. All fifteen tables are inside, but the piazza orchestra is just outside the window. 121.

AddressSan Marco
HoursWed–Sun 12:00–15:00 & 19:00–22:30, closed Mon–Tue; reservations smart
Order: Bistro dining with the piazza orchestra at the window

Ristorante Pizzeria da AlviseCasual · Moderate

Fondamente Nove 5045c

Popular for traditional dishes and pizza on a terrace with a lagoon view.

AddressFondamente Nove 5045c
HoursTue–Sun 12:00–14:00 & 19:00–22:00, closed Mon

Bar La PalancaCasual · Moderate

Giudecca 448, between the Palanca and Redentore stops

Friendly service and a happy crowd on the Giudecca embankment - lunch until 14:30, no dinner.

AddressGiudecca 448
HoursLunch until 14:30, no dinner, closed Sun

Osteria Ae BottiTrattoria · Upmarket

Giudecca 609

White-tablecloth fancy inside, with a row of tables hugging the embankment outside.

AddressGiudecca 609
HoursClosed Tue

Trattoria Al RedentoreTrattoria · Moderate

Giudecca 205b

Average pizza and pasta, but arguably the best views of Venice.

AddressGiudecca 205b
HoursDaily

Ristorante alla ConchigliaCasual · Moderate

Ponte dei Greci, east of St. Mark's

Pricier than most, with cheaper fixed-price menu options - lit up like a Christmas tree after dark, with gondolas gliding by.

Trattoria da Giorgio ai GreciTrattoria · Moderate

Fondamenta San Lorenzo, at the Ponte dei Greci

On Fondamenta San Lorenzo, where two canals meet at the Ponte dei Greci - pricier, but with cheaper fixed-price menu options and gondolas gliding by after dark.

Trattoria al Gatto Nero da RuggeroTrattoria · Moderate

Burano, on a tranquil canal under a tilting bell tower

Sits on a tranquil canal under a tilting bell tower in Burano's pastel townscape - go late to enjoy Burano without the crowds.

Off the tourist trail

Beyond the well-known tables, a newer generation of kitchens is earning its own following - some inside the sestieri, others out on the lagoon islands, where Torcello and Mazzorbo have quietly become destinations for serious dining. Several of these places belong to Associazione dei Ristoranti della Buona Accoglienza, a local group whose members commit to seasonal local produce and genuine hospitality.

DamaFine dining · Luxury

Campo dell'Anconetta, Cannaregio

A chef early in a Michelin-starred career reinterprets Venetian flavours here with a modern hand. The cooking is recognisably local but freed up - seasonal lagoon produce treated with contemporary technique and plenty of confidence, in a sleek Cannaregio room.

Order: Fresh, modern takes on classic lagoon flavours

Al CovoFine dining · Luxury

Campiello della Pescheria, Castello

A long-respected Castello dining room that champions seasonal ingredients and the principles of Slow Food. The kitchen is known for careful sourcing, an elegant hand with lagoon seafood and a wine list that rewards attention.

Order: Seasonal, Slow Food-minded seafood cooking

Osteria Al CichetoTrattoria · Moderate

Rialto backstreets, San Polo

A snug little osteria whose menu digs into the Venetian repertoire beyond the usual suspects, pairing them with wines from small, little-known producers. Ask what is local and you will eat well for less than the big names charge.

Order: Offbeat Venetian dishes with niche regional wines

Regina ScontaFine dining · Upmarket

Calle de la Regina, San Polo

Surf-and-turf plates with a refined finish, built around smaller producers and a roster of intriguing regional bottles. The room is dressy but welcoming, and the seafood-first menu changes with what the market and the seasons offer.

Order: Refined seafood and regional wine, small-producer focused

Al CovinoFine dining · Upmarket

Castello, near the Greek quarter

Clever seasonal menus that shuttle between the moody cooking of northern Italy and the sunnier flavours of the south. Expect thoughtful pasta, strong vegetable work and a relaxed, modern room.

Order: Seasonal menus bridging northern and southern Italy

VenissaFine dining · Moderate

Venissa estate, Mazzorbo, a short vaporetto ride from Fondamente Nove

A Michelin-starred wine estate restaurant on Mazzorbo, built on the island's own produce - bucolic Mazzorbo makes the trip part of the meal.

Order: The estate's island-grown produce

Venissa OsteriaCasual · Moderate

Venissa estate, Mazzorbo

The estate's casual offshoot, serving the same island-grown produce in a relaxed garden setting.

Order: Island-grown produce in a relaxed garden setting

Picnics & market food

  • Rialto produce market - a fruit and vegetable market sprawling for a few blocks north of the bridge (best Mon–Sat 8:00–13:00, liveliest in the morning, closed Sun), with the wonderfully fragrant fish market next door (closed Sun–Mon); the side lanes are speckled with hole-in-the-wall munchie bars, bakeries and cheese shops, and Al Mercà Bar does little sandwiches to go; the Rialto Mercato vaporetto stop is right there
  • Peter Pan ($) - döner kebabs and pizza to go on Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa at #6249, daily 11:30–23:00, Castello
  • Produce stands - near Campo Santi Filippo e Giacomo, on Campo Santa Maria Formosa and on Campo Santa Margarita
  • Pizza to go - family-size pies (about 20 inches) run €8–15 and 'normal' ones (12 inches) €4–8, plus pizza al taglio sold by the slice, usually reheated; prices climb sharply near Rialto and St. Mark's - at the foot of the bridge a family pie is cut into eight slices at about €4.50 each, while around Campo Santa Maria Formosa or Campo San Barnaba you get six larger slices for €2 each

For groceries and fresh produce beyond the Rialto, the Lido hosts a substantial weekly food market every Tuesday - Mercato Settimanale del Lido - and on Giudecca a Thursday-morning market sells organic vegetables grown in the prison's own vegetable garden. Floating produce barges moor along the Rio di Sant'Anna where Via Garibaldi runs out in Castello, and another pulls up next to the Campo San Barnaba square in Dorsoduro, close to Ponte dei Pugni.

Handy supermarkets & groceries
WhereWhat to know
Co-op near St. Mark'sCorner of Salizada San Lio and Calle del Mondo Novo, Castello 5817; deli counter, packaged salads and fresh sandwiches; daily 8:30–22:00
Co-op Piazzale RomaThe city's largest supermarket, next to the vaporetto stop at Santa Croce 504; an easy walk from the train station
Co-op Campo San FeliceSmaller, along the Strada Nova between the station and the Rialto area, Cannaregio 3660
Despar near San ZulianA few steps from San Zulian church, a 3-minute walk from St. Mark's at Calle al Ponte de la Guerra 514
Co-op Riva del CarbonJust beyond the Rialto vaporetto stop, facing the Grand Canal at 4173
Crai DorsoduroAround the corner from the Accademia, Rio Terrà Foscarini 879a; basics plus some takeaway food
Conad Zattere (west)On the Zattere embankment at #1492, by the San Basilio vaporetto stop
Conad Zattere (east)On the Zattere embankment at #417, near the Santo Spirito vaporetto stop

Gelato & chocolate

Venice isn't famous for gelato, but you'll still find good gelaterie in every neighborhood - typically one scoop for about €2 and €1 per extra scoop. The words artigianale or produzione propria mean the shop makes its own gelato (though sometimes from powder or paste bases). Avoid brightly colored gelato and places with overflowing tubs. The following are all open long hours daily.

Gelato & chocolate stops
SpotWhat to know
Gelatoteca SusoGourmet gelato in edible bowls; next to Campo San Bartolomeo on Calle de la Bissa, San Marco 5453a
Gran Caffè LavenaPiazza San Marco #134; won't win awards but convenient while the orchestras play
Gelateria al TodaroCorner of the Piazzetta at #3, near the water; a handy lick while strolling the square
Cioccolateria VizioVirtùA modern chocolate lab across from Osteria al Portego, with fine gelato as a bonus; closed Mon, Calle del Forner, Castello 5988
Gelateria Il DogeThe best gelato on Campo Santa Margarita
Nico GelateriaPopular Zattere spot with floating seating on the canal

Hungry yet? We'll weave the right tables - cicchetti crawls, lagoon fish, canal views - into your Venice itinerary, and handle the reservations for you.