Procida and Ischia - the quieter islands of the Bay of Naples
Procida and Ischia sit on the volcanic Phlegraean caldera but offer very different journeys. Procida is compact, colourful and built for slow walks, while Ischia needs several days to connect thermal water, fishing villages, Roman remains, gardens and mountain paths.
In a nutshell: choose Procida for a small island day with Marina Corricella, Terra Murata, black-sand beaches and a strong cultural calendar. Choose Ischia when you want thermal gardens, volcanic scenery, long coastal days and enough room to leave the port behind. Capri has its own detailed island guide; this page covers the two distinct island gaps that sit beyond it.
Which island fits your trip?
| Island | Best for | Plan for |
|---|---|---|
| Procida | Quiet streets, fishing culture, beaches, festivals and sunset views | A day or two; walking, buses and a flexible ferry return |
| Ischia | Thermal water, Roman archaeology, hiking and varied seaside villages | At least two or three days; the island is 47 sq km and its sights are far apart |
| Procida plus Ischia | A longer island route with two contrasting rhythms | Check the inter-island sailing before committing to a same-day transfer |
Procida
Tiny Procida was a fishing island long before it became a destination. Its quiet lanes, secluded bays and pastel harbour helped it become Italy's Capital of Culture in 2022, but the island still rewards a slow pace rather than a checklist. The local lemon has an unusually thick, bread-like rind and appears in dishes such as insalata di limone and in the lemon-cream-filled lingua di bue pastry.
Terra Murata and the old island
Walk uphill to Terra Murata, the medieval walled quarter that once protected the island from Saracen raids. The vaulted gateway leads to the Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo, whose silver and gold decoration is only part of the story: the basement holds an eighteenth-century nativity scene and an ossuary-necropolis. Outside the walls, Palazzo d'Avalos began as a seventeenth-century villa, became a prison in the nineteenth century and remained in use until the 1980s. Guided visits reveal preserved cells and cultural exhibitions. Continue downhill to Casale Vascello, Procida's oldest neighbourhood, where multicoloured homes are joined by unusual donkeyback staircases.
Marina Corricella at sunset
Marina Corricella is the historic fishing port and the island's most recognisable view. The pastel houses were traditionally painted in different colours so fishermen could identify them from the water, whether or not the legend is true. Daytime heat and crowds can be intense because the harbour has little cover; at sunset, walk down from Piazza dei Martiri, watch the boats return and stop for a limoncello spritz or seafood. The Muro dei Migranti adds plaques honouring islanders who left to build new lives elsewhere.
Beaches and lookouts
Spiaggia Cala del Pozzo Vecchio is a wild black-volcanic-sand cove associated with the film Il Postino. Spiaggia di Ciraccio is Procida's longest sandy stretch, with both beach clubs and free beach. Spiaggia Chiaia looks towards Marina Corricella and Terra Murata, while Spiaggia della Silurenza is easy to reach from Marina Grande. Chiaiolella is the liveliest beach area, with a port, shops and beach clubs. For views, choose the Terra Murata walls, Belvedere Elsa Morante, Punta Serra or the short walk to the old lighthouse at Punta di Pioppeto.
Vivara, the protected islet
Isola di Vivara is a small protected wildlife refuge off Procida's southwest edge, reached by a 362 m footbridge from Marina Chiaiolella. Access is occasional and guided: book through the Vivara nature reserve when tours are open. The reserve requires trekking shoes, suitable clothing and at least a 500 ml water bottle; there are no bathrooms and there is currently no disability access. The trails pass forest, archaeological traces and wide views towards Ischia, but conservation closures are part of the experience.
Procida's cultural calendar
The island's cultural life is larger than its size suggests. The Procida Film Festival brings short films, documentaries and animation to places such as Chiaiolella and Spiaggia della Silurenza. The summer literary series Procida Racconta and the Procida Blues Festival add a different rhythm, while Corricella in Jazz uses the fishing harbour as its backdrop. On Good Friday, the Procession of the Mysteries brings handmade biblical floats through the streets behind hooded apostles and funeral music.
Moving around Procida
Procida covers only 3.5 sq km and has fewer steep climbs than Ischia or Capri, so walking works for the centre and harbour. The lanes are narrow and traffic can be busy. Buses start from Marina Grande and offer single rides for €1.20, a daily ticket for €3.60 and a three-day pass for €11, although service can be uneven during the day. Scooters are useful for experienced riders, and ferries arrive at Marina Grande. The free Procida Island app gathers emergency numbers, operators, bus and ferry times and food listings.
Ischia
Ischia combines the first Greek colony in Italy with thermal water, beaches, forests, Roman ruins and a mountain that rises above the Gulf. Ischia Porto and Ischia Ponte have the most visitors and nightlife, but the outer frazioni reveal the island's strongest natural experiences. Heavy rain caused deadly mudslides in Casamicciola in 2022, and some paths have remained unsafe; check local advice before hiking.
Ischia Porto and Ischia Ponte
Ischia Porto grew from an old lake of baths into the island's main harbour. Walk Corso Vittoria Colonna, swim at Spiaggia dei Pescatori and follow the waterfront towards Rive Droite for evening food and bars. South of the port, Ischia Ponte leads across a narrow bridge towards Castello Aragonese, with boutiques, galleries, seafood restaurants and views of Baia di Cartaromana. Water taxis reach nearby coves and beaches, with fares starting around €3; island taxis start around €10.
Castello Aragonese
The Castello Aragonese rises on an islet joined to Ischia by a 220 m stone bridge. A Syracusan settlement stood here in the fifth century BCE; later rulers turned it into a self-sufficient fort city with churches, markets, crypts and homes. The route includes the Chiesa dell'Immacolata, medieval gardens, a Clarisse cemetery, a Bourbon prison and a crypt with fourteenth-century frescoes. Wear comfortable shoes: the visit covers about 2 km with many steps. The adjacent Albergo Il Monastero occupies the former convent.
Aenaria beneath the water
Just offshore from Spiaggia di Cartaromana, the submerged Roman settlement of Aenaria preserves walls, a maritime villa and the remains of a port quay. Archaeologists rediscovered it in 1972, and new finds continue to appear. Glass-bottom boat trips begin with a short introduction and are suitable for families; authorised guides can take certified visitors closer by snorkel or dive. ANS Diving Ischia lists the specialist option.
Lacco Ameno, Forio and Sant'Angelo
Lacco Ameno is associated with Pithecusae, the first Greek colony on the Italian peninsula, and the Museo Archeologico di Pithecusae in Villa Arbusto. San Montano Bay, the Bosco di Zaro and the mushroom-shaped rock called Il Fungo add an easy nature day. Forio has the sunset church of Santa Maria del Soccorso, the beaches of San Francesco, Chiaia and Citara, the Giardini Poseidon spa park, and the gardens of La Mortella and Giardini Ravino. Sant'Angelo is a small fishing village with water taxis to Le Fumarole and the long Spiaggia dei Maronti.
Thermal water and volcanic wellness
Ischia's thermal tradition ranges from large spa parks to natural fonts. Parco Negombo in Lacco Ameno combines pools, a Turkish bath, gardens and beach access. Giardini Poseidon in Forio is the island's best-known family-friendly thermal park. For a more elemental experience, Fonte delle Ninfe di Nitrodi in Barano offers thermal showers, treatments and a health bar rather than a large pool complex. Baia di Sorgeto is a hot natural bay reached from Sant'Angelo by water taxi; the rocks and water can be dangerous, so follow signs and local instructions.
Monte Epomeo
Monte Epomeo is Ischia's highest point at 789 m. The most popular trail starts in Fontana and covers about 3.5 km with a steep 789 m ascent, roughly 40 minutes each way for a fit walker. Wear proper shoes and carry water. Near the top, La Grotta da Fiore is known for Ischia-style rabbit, while the Chiesa di San Nicola ed Eremo is carved into the tuff about 60 m away. The circular island bus CD reaches Fontana from Ischia Porto in around 30 minutes.
Getting around Ischia
Ischia Porto and Ischia Ponte are easy to walk, but the outer frazioni are spread across mountain roads. Circular bus lines CD and CS connect the main areas, with tickets sold at tobacconists, newsagents, bars and ticket offices. A scooter suits an experienced rider; a small car is more comfortable for a multi-stop day but still faces narrow, steep roads. Do not ping-pong between every village. Choose one area, see it properly and leave the next one for another day.
Island logistics
- ✦May offers warm weather, opening beach clubs and better value than the peak summer months. June to August brings crowds, heat, high prices and some closures around Ferragosto.
- ✦Spring and autumn are the strongest seasons for walking. Winter is quieter and cheaper, but ferries, hotels, restaurants and monuments can reduce service or close.
- ✦Treat the last ferry as a hard appointment. Compare the return sailing before buying, especially when a day trip links two islands.
- ✦Pack flat-soled shoes, a swimsuit, a light layer for churches and a reusable bottle. Island paths combine stairs, stone and exposed sun.
- ✦For full outdoor detail across the coast, islands and Campi Flegrei, use the Campania outdoors guide.