Southern Italy food scene - dishes, markets, wine and festivals

A table built on tradition

The Italian saying A tavola non si invecchia, or you do not grow old at the table, captures the southern way of treating meals as a way to enjoy life. Street markets pile up sardines and Amalfi lemons, while slow-food trattorias serve family versions of peperoni ripieni, stuffed peppers. The cooking moves from humble pasta mollicata, with anchovies, tomato, garlic, onion and stale bread, to the lavish sartù di riso, a baked rice timbale filled with meatballs, pork sausage, eggs, mozzarella, peas and Neapolitan ragù. At both ends, respect for tradition and excellent produce is non-negotiable. Food is more than sustenance: it is regional pride, part of local expressions and even part of the popular image of Sophia Loren in The Gold of Naples.

Southern pantry staples

Extra-virgin olive oil is the essential southern fat. It dresses salads and vegetables and starts soffritto, the base of diced onion, carrot and celery used in sauces, soups and stews. A typical pantry also holds passata, tins of peeled pomodori pellati, especially prized San Marzano tomatoes, and dry pasta in countless shapes, including Puglia's ear-shaped orecchiette. Look for jars of capers, anchovies and sotto aceti, or pickled vegetables, plus packets of cruschi, the dried sweet peppers of Basilicata. Taralli are crunchy ring-shaped snacks. In the fridge, expect Calabrian 'nduja, a spicy spreadable sausage, buffalo-milk mozzarella, smoky provolone and sharp caciocavallo. The drinks cabinet may contain Campanian limoncello and the herbal Calabrian digestif Vecchio Amaro del Capo.

Vegetarian and vegan eating

Dedicated meat-free restaurants are not common, but vegetarians can usually eat very well. Markets are rich in local fruit, vegetables and nuts, and even meat-heavy menus normally offer vegetarian antipasti, pasta and contorni. Much southern cooking grew from vegetable and legume-based cucina povera, so some signature dishes are already vegetarian: parmigiana di melanzane, insalata caprese and Sicilian caponata, a sweet-and-sour mix of fried aubergines, tomatoes, olives and onions.

Vegan diners need to ask more questions. Eggs or butter may be hidden in a dish, and even pasta e fagioli can contain animal products. Ask È vegetariano/vegano? when you are unsure. At a pizzeria, request a pizza senza formaggio. The free HappyCow app lists vegan-friendly places.

Food and wine festivals

Pizza Napoletana

Naples treats pizza as a civic institution. A classic pizza napoletana is wood-fired, with a thick, charred and airy cornicione and a centre that stays slightly soft and floppy. The purist's choice is a margherita made with San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte or buffalo mozzarella, fresh basil and extra-virgin olive oil. Even with other toppings, a true Neapolitan pizza uses relatively little cheese, scattered in a few small patches. It is commonly cut into four or eight pieces and eaten with a knife and fork, although using your hands is perfectly acceptable. Fold the slice inward before lifting it so the toppings stay in place.

Cannoli rules

A good Sicilian cannolo is filled to order with fresh ricotta. Avoid shells that were filled in advance because the cream makes the pastry soggy and takes away its crunch. Use your hands, even in an elegant restaurant, and alternate ends as you bite. The best shells are handmade, so the cialda or scorza will not be a mathematically perfect cylinder; the ricotta filling should likewise be lavorata a mano, worked by hand. November to May is the best period for cannoli because ewes are grazing on fresh green grass, which improves the milk used for ricotta.

The southern wine world

Southern wine has moved from being overlooked to being one of Italy's most inventive scenes. In 1990, wine critic Burton Anderson wrote that Campania's noteworthy winemakers could be counted on one hand. Producers such as Marisa Cuomo in Furore, the so-called Cirò Boys in Calabria, and Erika and Ueli Breitschmid-Heiniger in Avola have since helped indigenous and local grapes reach an international audience.

Local specialities

Meals of a lifetime

The year in food

Best southern Italian dishes