Campania islands and the Amalfi Coast

The islands

Capri, Ischia and Procida became iconic escapes through the attention of filmmakers, musicians and artists, but their stories began much earlier. Greeks and Romans settled on the islands, and Ischia's mineral-rich thermal waters were already valued for healing. Capri was once an imperial seat. Today Procida is rustic and artistic, Ischia is relaxed and adventurous, and Capri combines couture with demanding walks and old villas.

Life in Ischia Porto

The ferry arrives in lively Ischia Porto, once known as lago de' Bagni, the lake of baths. In 1854, Frederick II ordered the lake to become a port, and the Festa del Porto on 17 September recreates the event with fireworks and period dress. Start at Bar Calise for an island cornetto with a two-colour shell and sour-cherry cream, then walk Corso Vittoria Colonna and swim at Spiaggia dei Pescatori. Pazziella serves creative seafood beside the water, while Rive Droite fills with restaurants and bars at night. Taverna Antonio is a choice for live music. Terme di Ischia is also in the port.

Vivara

The fish-shaped islet of Vivara sits 4 km from Procida's southwest tip, at the western edge of the active Campi Flegrei supervolcano. Its black-sand beaches and cliffs formed through underwater seismic activity. Vivara has been a protected wildlife refuge since 1974 and can only be visited during official opening periods with a guided tour. Cross the 362 m footbridge from Chiaiolella for views over the marina, beach and water.

Tours cost €10 and are booked through the Vivara Riserva Naturale Statale website. The islet may close for conservation; it reopened in 2023 with plans for archaeological work on its Mycenaean past. The 32-hectare oasis also preserves Mycenaean finds, a Bourbon hunting lodge built by the Duke of Guevara in 1681 and a rotating house designed by British architect Lamont Young. Forest paths lead to views of the Gulf and Ischia, with the Audouin's gull visible around midday.

• ✦Outside animals and food are forbidden.
• ✦Trekking shoes and suitable clothing are required, as is at least a 500 mL bottle of water. A sunhat, high-protection sunscreen and insect spray are recommended.
• ✦There are no bathrooms and no access for travellers with disabilities.

Ischia Ponte and Castello Aragonese

A narrow bridge links Ischia Ponte with Castello Aragonese. The approach has boutiques, galleries and seafood restaurants, with views over Baia di Cartaromana. Spiaggia di Cartaromana is a small cliff-backed beach served by Giardino Eden, reachable on foot or by water taxi. Above it, Torre di Guevara is a 14th-century family tower that occasionally opens to visitors and contains layers of frescoes. Boat and snorkelling tours can reach Grotta Verde and Grotta del Mago, where volcanic light creates a green bioluminescent effect. Stay for an aperitivo and dinner at sunset, when the pier becomes pedestrian and lively.

Aenaria beneath the water

The submerged Roman city of Aenaria lies offshore from Spiaggia di Cartaromana. It existed from the fourth century BCE, replacing the Greek settlement of Pithecusae, and sank between 130 and 150 BCE after an earthquake or the eruption of the Cretaio volcano in 150 BCE. Divers rediscovered it in 1972, including city walls and two Roman lead ingots. New discoveries continue, including a maritime villa wall and a harbour quay with the remains of a ship.

Archaeologists lead child-friendly glass-bottomed boat tours from Marina di Sant'Anna for €25-35 per person; see msantanna.it. Snorkelling and diving expeditions with authorised guides start at €60 per person through ANS Ischia at ansdivingischia.it.

Ischia's thermal springs

The Greeks recognised Ischia's thermal waters centuries ago, and the island still offers a spectrum from natural bays to luxury hotel spas and family-friendly parks. Experiences include hot pools, mud treatments, saunas and beauty therapies. Giardini Poseidon in Forio has several outdoor pools and access to Spiaggia di Citara. Parco Negombo in Lacco Ameno has 13 thermal pools, a sauna, Japanese labyrinth pool and private beach.

• ✦Spa parks may sell full-day, half-day, late-afternoon and closing-time admissions; call hotel spas in advance.
• ✦Treatments usually need an advance booking even when a park accepts walk-ins.
• ✦Bring a swimsuit, flip-flops, sunscreen and a towel. Some parks require a bathing cap, sold on site, and nudity is not permitted.
• ✦The entry ticket is only the base cost; massages, mud, water and beauty treatments cost extra.

Ischia's alkaline waters contain minerals including sulphur, potassium, iron and iodine, while the mud is nutrient-rich. Medical thermal programmes can address musculoskeletal problems, post-accident trauma and respiratory or vascular disorders, but visitors need an examination and usually commit to seven to 10 days of treatment. Cold mud treatments and masks do not require a prescription. Terme di Ischia in the port uses high-tech aesthetic medicine, while Hotel Continental Ischia draws water and mud from 39 m beneath the property and has an internal dialysis centre.

At the foot of Castello Aragonese, volcanic vents release CO2 bubbles that can feel like a hydromassage while snorkelling. Eight cetacean species live around Ischia, including sperm whales such as the returning whale locals call Salvatore. Around the Fumarole, the subtropical Cyperus polystachyos grows near active fields. On Monte Epomeo, look for old homes carved into the island's green tuff.

The Passeggiata del Pizzolungo

Capri Town rewards walkers who leave the Piazzetta. The 1.4 km Passeggiata del Pizzolungo is an easy loop, mostly paved, around the southeast tip between Punta Tragara and Arco Naturale. It passes villas, grottoes and views of the Faraglioni, then the Belvedere di Tragara and the Palaeolithic limestone arch. For lunch, climb Via Matermania to Le Grottelle. From there, stairs reach Grotta di Matermania, linked with ancient rituals for Mithras, before the path continues to Belvedere del Pizzolungo and the Faraglioni cliff beach.

The Blue Grotto

Grotta Azzurra has fascinated visitors since Roman times. The cave sank by as much as 20 m in prehistory, leaving an entrance only 1.3 m high. Sunlight passes through a small opening under the water and reflects from the floor, creating the intense blue glow. A boat tour from Marina Grande and a separate rowboat are needed. The stay inside is about 10 minutes, queues can be long, tips are expected by rowboat operators, rough seas close the cave and swimming is forbidden.

Gardens, monastery and Via Krupp

Giardini di Augusto and Certosa di San Giacomo sit close together but offer a calm break from Capri Town. The Carthusian monastery was founded in 1371 by Giacomo Arcucci on land donated by Queen Giovanna I of Anjou; its church has 17th-century frescoes and modern-art exhibitions. The nearby Carthusia perfume shop traces its foundation to 1380. Continue to the terrace garden for flowerbeds, brick paths, busts and views over Marina Piccola and the Faraglioni, especially beautiful in spring.

Via Krupp is a 1.5 km paved hairpin path from the gardens towards Marina Piccola. It was closed for safety from 1976 and later reopened, creating a gentle urban hike with Gulf of Salerno views and the option of a swim below. A bus can take you back uphill.

Shopping recommendations from capri.com point to the island's own clothing, perfume, preserves and artisanal textiles. Piazza Umberto I, La Piazzetta, is Capri Town's people-watching centre, although an espresso can cost €8. Continue through Via Le Botteghe for boutiques, restaurants and hotels, follow the pastry smell to Gelateria Buonocore on Via Vittorio Emanuele for a freshly pressed waffle cone, and then walk Via Camerelle, the island's luxury shopping street. Return to the piazza for aperitivo.

The Amalfi Coast

The Sorrento Coast runs south of Naples from Vico Equense to Massa Lubrense and Punta Campanella. Beyond that corner, the Amalfi Coast continues east to Vietri sul Mare, just before Salerno. The strip is small but impossible to see well in a single rush. Choose a few experiences: cheese in Vico Equense, a swim near Sorrento, ceramics in Vietri, ancient fish sauce in Cetara or a high mountain walk above Amalfi.

The hairpin SS163 is famous and often gridlocked. SITA buses connect all 22 towns on the Sorrentine Peninsula, but they fill from June through August and are also used by residents. Falling rocks, mudslides and high seas can delay both roads and ferries, so keep the day flexible rather than expecting the coast to follow a timetable.

Cheesemaking in Vico Equense

Vico Equense is the first official town on the Sorrentine Coast and a centre for cheesemaking. Caseificio Fernando De Gennaro is Italy's third-oldest cheese shop, in the same family since 1850, and specialises in Provolone del Monaco. Its museum follows the history of cheese, including its ancient Greek roots, and the family can arrange tastings or demonstrations with wine. Caseificio Starace offers hands-on classes in fior di latte, fresh butter or primo sale, the first stage of ageing. Both can be booked through the Vico Equense Be-IT app.

Bagni Regina Giovanna

Bagni Regina Giovanna is a natural pool beside the ruins of a Roman villa outside Sorrento. Tradition links it with Queen Giovanna II of Anjou-Durazzo and the private escapes she made there in the 14th century. The site is free but reachable only on foot. Follow Via Capo from Sorrento to Traversa Punta Capo, buy a sandwich and water at the alimentari, then continue to the footpath and steep staircase. Good shoes are essential. Swim in the shallow pools, picnic among the Pollio Felice villa ruins and take all rubbish away.

Punta Campanella

Punta Campanella marks the end of the Sorrentine Peninsula. A Greek temple dedicated to Athena once stood here, and Roman inscriptions from the second century BCE identify the promontory with Minerva, the goddess who helped Ulysses resist the sirens. From Sorrento or Massa Lubrense, take the bus towards Termini and stay until the terminus. The full route is an 8 km hike that can include San Costanzo Monastery at 486 m; for the views alone, take the first 2 km downhill along the ancient Via Minerva, a Greek-Roman mule track from the fourth century BCE, to the lighthouse. Follow the red and white trail marks and allow two to three hours for the sunset.

A walk through Sorrento

This 1.5 km, 1.5-hour walk begins at Vallone dei Mulini, the deep valley where ancient wheat mills once worked. Continue to Piazza Tasso, whose centre belongs to the statue of patron Sant'Antonino rather than the poet Tasso, then visit the Basilica di Sant'Antonino and its relics, including the whale bones linked with a rescue legend. The Chiostro di San Francesco layers pagan, Roman and medieval architecture and now hosts exhibitions and performances. Return through the small streets to the frescoed 14th-century Dominova Seat, the former meeting place for nobles, then Chiesa dei Santi Felice e Baccolo, once the cathedral and now home to inlaid-wood artist Giuseppe Rocco. Finish at Cuore di Pane, a welcoming neighbourhood gastronomia.

The Amalfi Lemon Experience

Lemons arrived on the coast in the 11th century. The Aceto family has cultivated them in the hills above Amalfi since 1825, and the Amalfi Lemon Experience follows the farm's terraces and sustainable work. Salvatore Aceto explains grafting, disease resistance and the changes required by climate change. The visit ends in a hillside cafe with lemon pesto, homemade pastries and organic limoncello made in the farm press. Optional experiences include cooking classes, honey tastings, lemon and yoga pairings, and a lemon lunch. Tours run throughout the day, prices vary by experience and the meeting point changes; contact the farm about limited mobility.

Agerola's Magici Sentieri rents boots, poles and protective equipment for the coast's trails and also sells gear. It is a practical first stop for walkers who did not bring the necessary kit.

Santa Maria dei Monti

Instead of following the most crowded route, walk from Agerola towards Santa Maria dei Monti on the high plateau of the Lattari Mountains. This medium-difficulty trail follows paths that connected Campania's interior with the coast more than 1000 years ago. Shepherds and farmers still use sections of it, and the route passes chestnut wood, old water sources that powered Amalfi's paper mills and views from Naples to Cilento. Look down for pumice stones carried here by the 79 CE eruption.

At 1100 m, Rifugio di Santa Maria dei Monti, at rifugiosantamaria.com, offers hikers a meal and simple accommodation in the adjacent lodge. Antonio Buonaventura runs the refuge and built a panoramic bench from a giant barrel.

Cetara's contadini pescatori

The Cetara Contadini Pescatori network at cetaracontadinipescatori.com brings traditional craftspeople and tourism professionals together. Experiences include lemon-farm visits, historic walks, cooking with local chefs and overnight fishing trips. The fishing trips leave at dusk and return at dawn, so plan for a full night at sea.

Vietri sul Mare and ceramics

Vietri sul Mare is the ceramic centre at the gateway to the Amalfi Coast. Ceramica Pinto still occupies the family palazzo, with the working studio in the basement and views over the Tyrrhenian Sea. Ceramica Artistica Solimene, designed by Paolo Soleri in 1951, is itself an exuberant building covered in terracotta and Vietri tiles. The adjacent Villa Comunale overlooks the water and demonstrates how lively the craft remains. Museo della Ceramica is free, closed Monday, hosts concerts and has a permanent collection covering several eras of Vietri production.

The Path of the Gods

• ✦If heights are a problem, use trail 327a towards Nocelle rather than trail 327.
• ✦The 1700 steps from Nocelle to Positano can be hard even downhill. A Montepertuso detour adds about 30 minutes, with more paved road and gentler inclines.
• ✦Start early for a cooler walk and a better chance of finding space on the bus.
• ✦For an emergency, call 118 and read the location number on the nearest trail tile. If there is no phone signal, ask a guide for help.

The Sentiero degli Dei was named in the 1980s for an older shepherd route. It runs about 6 km each way from Agerola, usually Bomerano, to Nocelle above Positano and takes three to five hours depending on fitness and preparation. The common direction is mostly downhill: reach Bomerano by bus from Amalfi, walk to Nocelle, then take public transport back or continue to Positano. The lemon slushie stand in Nocelle has the useful combination of refreshments and bathrooms. The path is signposted, but a guide adds context and helps with the return. Carry proper shoes, water, a backpack and a windbreaker: injuries occur every year and high-season crowds make preparation essential.

The art of colatura in Cetara

Cetara's anchovy tradition reaches back to Roman fishing. Colatura di alici is the amber liquid produced by slowly pressing salted anchovies in small chestnut barrels. Through the Contadini Pescatori programme, visitors can learn the process with local producers; classes cost from €50 per person, last two to six hours and accept groups of two to 10.

A sunrise walk through Positano

Start at Fornillo Beach for this 2.4 km, 1.5-hour route. Follow the shore east, climb to Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta and its Byzantine Virgin, then pass Spiaggia Grande and the pedestrian Via dei Mulini beneath bougainvillea. The junction of Via Santa Croce and Via Liparati offers a quiet early panorama. If the Fresh Fruit Juice stall is open, stop for lemonade. Otherwise continue to Donna Rosa, then climb towards Il Buco di Montepertuso, the hole in the rock created by the Virgin Mary in local legend. At sunrise, the opening frames the sky and the first boats entering the port.

In a nutshell: Read here for the islands and coast, then return to the Campania overview or continue with Naples in depth, archaeology and Campi Flegrei, and Salerno and Cilento.