Naples and Campania - cities, islands, ruins and secret trails

The shape of Campania

The region is larger and more varied than its most photographed coastline suggests. Naples has dense layers of Greek, Roman, Norman, Spanish and Bourbon history. Capri, Procida and Ischia each have a different character. The Amalfi and Sorrento coasts combine cliffs, lemons, ceramics and fishing traditions, while Salerno and Cilento open into Greek ruins, national-park landscapes and the farms that produce mozzarella di bufala.

Plan a first route

• ✦One day in Naples: walk the Centro Storico, eat street food, explore the Quartieri Spagnoli, visit Chiaia and finish on Via Partenope by Mappatella Beach.
• ✦Three days on the coast: use Positano as a base if the budget allows, visit Cetara for colatura, spend a day on Capri and choose Santa Maria dei Monti instead of joining the busiest Path of the Gods crowd.
• ✦One week in wild Cilento: give Salerno a full day, visit Paestum and its museum, then explore the Vallo di Diano, Teggiano and the Valle delle Orchidee, where more than 70 orchid species bloom in spring.

Naples

Naples began as the Greek colony of Neapolis, founded in 474 BCE. Norman, Spanish and Bourbon rulers enriched the city and left monuments such as Castel Sant'Elmo and the Palazzo Reale. After Italian unification in 1861, its reputation declined and the Camorra deepened the city's problems, yet every few streets still reveal an extraordinary church, palace, mural or piece of modern art. Naples is both exactly as vivid as its reputation and much more surprising than it.

Getting around Naples

The centre is compact and best explored on foot. Take extra care in crowded places and at night. Buses, funiculars and the metro are improving and are essential for the hills and the western and southern districts. Tap-and-go payment and transport apps can still be inconsistent, so allow time and ask for help. Driving is a poor choice because traffic is intense and parking is scarce.

The Miracle of San Gennaro

San Gennaro and Diego Armando Maradona are the two names almost every Neapolitan knows instinctively. San Gennaro's preserved blood is associated with a liquefaction that is observed three times each year: the first Saturday in May, 19 September and 16 December. Thousands gather at the free Duomo di Napoli for the ritual. The two sealed ampoules cannot be opened for testing, but the devotion is as much about the city as the saint.

The 13th-century Gothic cathedral is worth visiting outside the holy days as well. Its interior includes Gothic arches, a wooden ceiling by Luca Giordano and works by Neapolitan and Italian masters. Beneath the apse are a late imperial Roman peristyle and traces of an aqueduct, while a Greek road below shows that this has been a living place for more than 3000 years. It remains a working church, so dress modestly. The Cappella di San Gennaro and the adjacent Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro are also available; the combined chapel and museum ticket is listed at €15 on tesorosangennaro.it.

The haunted Fontanelle cemetery

The Cimitero delle Fontanelle began as a 17th-century charnel house and became a mass grave during the plague of 1656, which killed half of Naples. A violent storm later sent skulls and bones into the streets. From the 1870s, women who organised the remains developed a devotional practice: they named skulls, spoke to them, brought offerings and treated them as good-luck figures. The fragile cemetery can close for structural work, so check cimiterofontanelle.com and call +39 81 1925 6964to arrange a guided visit.

MANN, the archaeological museum

The MANN is central Naples' largest museum and deserves at least half a day. Admission is listed at €22 and the museum is closed on Tuesday. The Greek and Roman collections centre on the Farnese Collection of gems and marbles, with bronzes and mosaics recovered from Pompeii and Herculaneum. They make the scale of the Vesuvius eruption tangible even before you visit the ruins.

Seven rooms cover six centuries of Egyptian material, and a separate Magna Graecia display drawn from Campania's finds costs €1.50. The Secret Room holds more than 250 pieces of erotic art, mainly excavated at Pompeii and Herculaneum, a collection that was repeatedly censored and restricted by the Bourbon monarchy. Check current details at mann-napoli.it.

Street art with Napoli Paint Stories

Naples is an open-air museum, and the non-profit 400ml helps preserve its street art. Artist Gennaro Cedrangolo leads Napoli Paint Stories through the centre and other districts, introducing work by Diego Miedo, Blu, Cyop and Kaf, Trallallà and Banksy. The route also includes A New Parthenope by Francesco Bosoletti and Gennaro by Jorit. Group and private walks run daily; see Napoli Paint Stories.

A Centro Storico walk

Allow 2 km and about 2.5 hours. Start at Piazza del Gesù and Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo, continue along Via Benedetto Croce to Chiesa di San Domenico Maggiore, then follow the signs to Ospedale delle Bambole, a 200-year-old doll museum. Stop at Da Michele for pizza, continue to the Decumano Maggiore through Pio Monte della Misericordia and the Duomo, then follow Via dei Tribunali to Via San Gregorio Armeno and its famous pastori, or nativity figures. Finish with the Pulcinella Bust on Vico del Fico Al Purgatorio, Santa Maria delle Anime with its underground chapel and winged marble skull, Cappella Sansevero and Piazza Bellini, where fourth-century-BCE Greek walls remain visible.

Totò's home and the Catacombs of San Gennaro

In Sanità, a neighbourhood association marks the childhood home of Antonio de Curtis, Totò, with handwritten signs and can show visitors the stairwell leading to his former door. The small site is maintained through donations and may one day become a museum. Nearby, the Catacombs of San Gennaro occupy two levels of pre-Christian chambers cut into tuff. After San Gennaro was beheaded at Pozzuoli in 305, his body was probably taken here, later moved to Benevento in the ninth century and reunited with his head in the Duomo's underground vault in the sixteenth century.

The catacombs are a good one-hour visit for families and are fully accessible. Adult admission is €13, under-18 admission €6, and the site is closed Wednesday. Special lighting protects the frescoes, the temperature stays close to 15 C all year and young scholars from the Paranza association lead visits in Italian and English. Details are at catacombedinapoli.it.

Capodimonte and its royal woods

The Royal Palace of Capodimonte began in 1738 as Charles III's proposed hunting lodge, then became a palace for his court and the art collection inherited from Elisabetta Farnese. Museo di Capodimonte now combines the original Farnese holdings with contemporary work by artists including Mimmo Paladino and Umberto Manzo. Adult admission is €10 and under-18s enter free; see capodimonte.cultura.gov.it. The former hunting forest, Real Bosco di Capodimonte, covers 124 hectares and is ideal for an afternoon walk after the galleries.

A fourth-generation deli on Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Antica Salumeria Malinconico dal 1890, expresses another part of the city's continuity. The family has worked there since 1890, balancing curiosity about new tastes with a commitment to authentic, well-made food and the trust built over 134 years.

Toledo Metro Station

Toledo on Metro Line 1 is the standout of Naples' Stazione dell'Arte project, which turns stations into public art. It opened in 2012 and connects Via Toledo with Vomero and the port. William Kentridge's equestrian figure marks the entrance, while his mosaic joins shadowy figures with San Gennaro. During the 50 m descent, dark becomes light, the earth becomes the sea and Robert Wilson's light panels create waves around the below-sea-level platform. The metro runs 6.20am-11pm Sunday to Thursday and until 1.30am Friday and Saturday. Buy tickets at the station or through the Unico app; see anm.it.

The many moods of the Quartieri Spagnoli

This 1.5 km, 1.5-hour walk starts at the Ricordo Di Mattia Fagnoni mural on Via Portamedina. Continue to Con Mollica o Senza for enormous sandwiches, then through Mercato della Pignasecca to Le Zendraglie for trippa. Look for the Murales alla Tarantina, dedicated to the femminiello, a traditional Neapolitan third-gender figure associated with Fellini. Follow Vico Lungo del Gelso, where more than 200 Cyop and Kaf works line the streets, and pause at Piazza Figurella di Montecalvario and Spritz e Baracche.

Vico Totò contains arrows and drawings made by a children's collective, not only an homage to the actor. Continue to the Eleonora Pimentel Fonseca mural and Via Emanuele de Deo, with work by Cyop and Kaf and tributes to Lucio Dalla, Totò and Pino Daniele. End at Piazza Maradona, then join the blue spritz and football atmosphere at La Bodega de D10s.

Piazza Maradona

The mural on Largo Emanuele de Deo celebrates the second Serie A title won by Maradona and SSC Napoli in the 1989/90 season. The first title, in 1986/87, was also closely associated with his leadership. At 23, artist and waiter Mario Filardi painted the image over three days and two nights using a pocket-sized photograph and car headlights supplied by friends. After Maradona died in 2020, people left offerings at the wall and the space became a place of pilgrimage. When Napoli won its third title in 2023, the whole city converged there.

Limonata a cosce aperte

This fizzy Neapolitan lemonade combines lemon, water and bicarbonate. Drink it quickly while seated with your legs apart: once the bicarbonate is added, the mixture can erupt like a miniature Vesuvius and spill over your clothes. Stalls in Chiaia and along the waterfront are useful places to try it, close to tailors and the sea if the experiment goes badly.

Castel dell'Ovo

The Norman Castel dell'Ovo stands on the islet of Megaride and is the oldest of Naples' seven castles. The 12th-century building has been a monastery, fortress, prison and royal residence. Its name comes from the legend that Virgil buried an egg beneath the castle and promised that the building would fall if the egg broke. At the time of research it was closed for maintenance with no reopening date announced, but the silhouette remains visible from the coastline.

The E Marinella experience

E Marinella has welcomed customers from 6.30am for more than a century, specialising in silk and especially ties. The tiny shop at emarinella.eu is free to enter and has fabric-lined walls and a concealed dressing room. Owner Maurizio Marinella is usually behind the counter apart from a few August days. Appointments can be made for the nearby workshop, where tailors explain archival patterns and can create a bespoke tie.

The art of caffè sospeso

Caffè sospeso means paying for an extra coffee to be enjoyed later by someone who cannot afford one. Caffè Gambrinus revived the custom for a new generation around its 150th anniversary. Order one for yourself and leave one for another person: the gesture expresses the Neapolitan habit of turning personal happiness into a small public offering.

A match at Stadio Diego Armando Maradona

SSC Napoli football is closer to devotion than ordinary entertainment. The Stadio Diego Armando Maradona is in Fuorigrotta and is easy to reach. For a calmer family atmosphere, choose the Distinti section. Curva A and Curva B belong to the Ultras, the most fervent supporters, so many visitors prefer to admire that energy from the Distinti. Check the schedule and buy tickets through sscnapoli.it; take Line 2 to Campi Flegrei and follow the signs for the seven-minute walk.

Posillipo and Mappatella Beach

Parco Virgiliano, also called Parco delle Remembranze, is a strong viewpoint in Posillipo. Ancient Romans built lavish villas here, and the panorama takes in Capri, Ischia, Procida, the Sorrentine Peninsula, Vesuvius, Pozzuoli and Campi Flegrei. For a simpler seaside ritual, walk to Mappatella Beach, a free local swimming spot that becomes crowded in summer. At Chalet Ciro, chaletciro.it, try the cono graffe, gelato in a doughnut cone for €5, pastries and gelato from €2.50, or salty taralli Napoletani with a cold beer.

Beyond Naples

The Bay of Naples is shaped by earthquakes and by Vesuvius, known locally as 'a Muntagna. The eruption of 79 CE buried Pompeii and Herculaneum for more than 1500 years, preserving estates, temples, baths and public spaces that later drew Grand Tour travellers. West of Naples, the seismically active Campi Flegrei also contains the oldest Greek settlement on the Italian mainland and the submerged Roman resort of Baiae.

The Circumvesuviana

The Circumvesuviana connects Naples with the Sorrentine Peninsula, Pompeii, Vesuvius and the towns around them. Trains can be crowded, hot and marked by graffiti, but the service is more reliable and safer than its old reputation suggests. Cars and buses face severe high-season traffic, so allow a generous margin on the roads.

Mt Vesuvius

The twin-peaked 1281 m volcano is still active. The villages around it were recovering from a major earthquake 17 years before the 79 CE eruption, and Vesuvius erupted again in 1944. Almost three million people now live within 32 km of the crater. Vesuvius National Park, established in 1995, covers 8482 hectares. The crater is about 450 m across and the climb to its edge is demanding, especially in direct sun, so bring plenty of water and a hat.

For an organised visit, look for a vulcanologist or ride horseback through the vineyards and finish with a tasting of Lacryma Christi. Vesuvius Active runs a shuttle from Herculaneum station to the park in about 40 minutes, leaving time for the crater path, Gulf views and a beer at the cafe above.

A Caldera road trip

Allow five hours for this 16 km drive through Campi Flegrei. Begin at Santuario di San Gennaro a Pozzuoli, the place associated with the saint's martyrdom. Pass the Solfatara volcano, closed to the public since 2019 but still visibly steaming beside the road, then reach the Anfiteatro Flavio in Pozzuoli and eat at Mar Limone nearby. Continue to Cuma, the first Magna Graecia colony from the eighth century BCE, and explore the tunnel of the Sibyl. At Lago di Fusaro, stop at Casina Vanvitelliana, a Bourbon hunting lodge on an islet whose octagonal form has attracted dignitaries and film crews.

Continue to the Terme di Baia archaeological site and the Museo Archeologico dei Campi Flegrei inside Castello Aragonese. If access is available, see Piscina Mirabilis, an extraordinary Roman cistern. End at Capo Miseno on the edge of the crater for the views across the bay.

Bradyseism and Baia Sommersa

Bradyseism is the slow rise and fall of the ground as magma moves through underground chambers. It explains why Campi Flegrei experiences frequent tremors and why ancient Baiae now lies about 5 m below the sea. Monte Nuovo is another result: it rose from the ground in 1538 in the space of a single week.

Baia Sommersa was the Roman Riviera, a coast of luxurious villas used by emperors and senators. The 1538 eruption split the coastline and opened a 200 m inland break before bradyseism lowered the ancient resort. The underwater city was rediscovered in the 1980s and is now protected. Guided snorkelling and scuba excursions must be reserved in advance; Centro Sub Campi Flegrei at centrosubcampiflegrei.it lists snorkelling from €25 per person and visits to one or two villa sites with mosaics, statues and submerged architecture.

Herculaneum

Herculaneum is about 20 minutes from Naples. The same 79 CE eruption that destroyed Pompeii covered it with volcanic mud, leaving a smaller and often more manageable archaeological site. Casa dei Cervi was a two-storey sea-view villa whose courtyard held marble deer being attacked by dogs and an irreverent Hercules. Casa Sannitica, built in the second century BCE by the Samnites after their conquest of the Greeks in 421 BCE, preserves an impluvium, second-storey wooden latticework and a fresco of the Europa myth.

The vaulted rooms of L'Antica Spiaggia opened onto the beach and probably served as warehouses before becoming a refuge during the eruption. Around 300 skeletons, necklaces and coins were found there in 1980, and the restored beach now resembles its ancient setting. A nine-metre wooden boat, Il Gozzo, was found nearby two years later. The Terme Suburbane and Terme Urbane retain tepidarium, caldarium and frigidarium rooms, pools, marble tubs and nearly intact mosaics of sea creatures and geometric patterns. Casa del Tramezzo di Legno preserves a charred folding wooden screen and bedframe from a business atrium.

Marechiaro

The small fishing village of Marechiaro lies 7 km southwest of Mappatella Beach. Its Fenestrella, a sea-facing window with a plaque and a fresh carnation, is linked with Salvatore Di Giacomo's Neapolitan song Marechiare. Fishing still shapes the village, and barcaioli take visitors to rock beaches from the port. From Mergellina, take bus 140 to Ricciardi, then descend the steep stairways. Discesa Coroglio is the best-maintained route.

Caserta

The Bourbon court commissioned Reggia di Caserta in 1752, choosing a site about 25 km from Naples that was close to the capital but safer from pirates. Luigi Vanvitelli designed a 6100 sq m baroque palace with four courtyards, 1200 rooms, 34 staircases, a theatre and a library. The entrance staircase has 117 steps and leads to apartments filled with art, frescoes, lacquered wood, gilt and crystal. Give the gardens time as well: their statues, fountains, waterfalls and pools form one of Europe's most impressive landscaped spaces.

Pompeii

Vesuvius buried Pompeii in 79 CE under lapilli, burning fragments of pumice. The excavated city preserves streets, houses, temples, shops, cafes, theatres and a brothel, offering a detailed view of Roman daily life. The 20,000-seat Anfiteatro occupies the eastern end of the site. The Foro was the political, commercial and religious centre and is best saved for later in the day, when the sun is less punishing. Villa dei Misteri, a 90-room residence from the second century BCE, contains a vast Dionysiac frieze.

Insula dei Casti Amanti was first uncovered in 1912 and includes a room of mythological figures, charcoal drawings by children in a service courtyard and an entrance where two eruption victims were found. Its restoration and photovoltaic work form part of the Pompei for All initiative, which includes access for visitors with disabilities.

• ✦Enter through the less crowded Amphitheatre gate whenever possible.
• ✦Morning is usually the busiest period; use the afternoon for the broadest spaces.
• ✦Buy tickets directly through the official Pompei website.
• ✦The multilingual audioguides are useful for a first visit.

The islands

Capri, Ischia and Procida became iconic escapes through the attention of filmmakers, musicians and artists, but their stories began much earlier. Greeks and Romans settled on the islands, and Ischia's mineral-rich thermal waters were already valued for healing. Capri was once an imperial seat. Today Procida is rustic and artistic, Ischia is relaxed and adventurous, and Capri combines couture with demanding walks and old villas.

Life in Ischia Porto

The ferry arrives in lively Ischia Porto, once known as lago de' Bagni, the lake of baths. In 1854, Frederick II ordered the lake to become a port, and the Festa del Porto on 17 September recreates the event with fireworks and period dress. Start at Bar Calise for an island cornetto with a two-colour shell and sour-cherry cream, then walk Corso Vittoria Colonna and swim at Spiaggia dei Pescatori. Pazziella serves creative seafood beside the water, while Rive Droite fills with restaurants and bars at night. Taverna Antonio is a choice for live music. Terme di Ischia is also in the port.

Vivara

The fish-shaped islet of Vivara sits 4 km from Procida's southwest tip, at the western edge of the active Campi Flegrei supervolcano. Its black-sand beaches and cliffs formed through underwater seismic activity. Vivara has been a protected wildlife refuge since 1974 and can only be visited during official opening periods with a guided tour. Cross the 362 m footbridge from Chiaiolella for views over the marina, beach and water.

Tours cost €10 and are booked through the Vivara Riserva Naturale Statale website. The islet may close for conservation; it reopened in 2023 with plans for archaeological work on its Mycenaean past. The 32-hectare oasis also preserves Mycenaean finds, a Bourbon hunting lodge built by the Duke of Guevara in 1681 and a rotating house designed by British architect Lamont Young. Forest paths lead to views of the Gulf and Ischia, with the Audouin's gull visible around midday.

• ✦Outside animals and food are forbidden.
• ✦Trekking shoes and suitable clothing are required, as is at least a 500 mL bottle of water. A sunhat, high-protection sunscreen and insect spray are recommended.
• ✦There are no bathrooms and no access for travellers with disabilities.

Ischia Ponte and Castello Aragonese

A narrow bridge links Ischia Ponte with Castello Aragonese. The approach has boutiques, galleries and seafood restaurants, with views over Baia di Cartaromana. Spiaggia di Cartaromana is a small cliff-backed beach served by Giardino Eden, reachable on foot or by water taxi. Above it, Torre di Guevara is a 14th-century family tower that occasionally opens to visitors and contains layers of frescoes. Boat and snorkelling tours can reach Grotta Verde and Grotta del Mago, where volcanic light creates a green bioluminescent effect. Stay for an aperitivo and dinner at sunset, when the pier becomes pedestrian and lively.

Aenaria beneath the water

The submerged Roman city of Aenaria lies offshore from Spiaggia di Cartaromana. It existed from the fourth century BCE, replacing the Greek settlement of Pithecusae, and sank between 130 and 150 BCE after an earthquake or the eruption of the Cretaio volcano in 150 BCE. Divers rediscovered it in 1972, including city walls and two Roman lead ingots. New discoveries continue, including a maritime villa wall and a harbour quay with the remains of a ship.

Archaeologists lead child-friendly glass-bottomed boat tours from Marina di Sant'Anna for €25-35 per person; see msantanna.it. Snorkelling and diving expeditions with authorised guides start at €60 per person through ANS Ischia at ansdivingischia.it.

Ischia's thermal springs

The Greeks recognised Ischia's thermal waters centuries ago, and the island still offers a spectrum from natural bays to luxury hotel spas and family-friendly parks. Experiences include hot pools, mud treatments, saunas and beauty therapies. Giardini Poseidon in Forio has several outdoor pools and access to Spiaggia di Citara. Parco Negombo in Lacco Ameno has 13 thermal pools, a sauna, Japanese labyrinth pool and private beach.

• ✦Spa parks may sell full-day, half-day, late-afternoon and closing-time admissions; call hotel spas in advance.
• ✦Treatments usually need an advance booking even when a park accepts walk-ins.
• ✦Bring a swimsuit, flip-flops, sunscreen and a towel. Some parks require a bathing cap, sold on site, and nudity is not permitted.
• ✦The entry ticket is only the base cost; massages, mud, water and beauty treatments cost extra.

Ischia's alkaline waters contain minerals including sulphur, potassium, iron and iodine, while the mud is nutrient-rich. Medical thermal programmes can address musculoskeletal problems, post-accident trauma and respiratory or vascular disorders, but visitors need an examination and usually commit to seven to 10 days of treatment. Cold mud treatments and masks do not require a prescription. Terme di Ischia in the port uses high-tech aesthetic medicine, while Hotel Continental Ischia draws water and mud from 39 m beneath the property and has an internal dialysis centre.

At the foot of Castello Aragonese, volcanic vents release CO2 bubbles that can feel like a hydromassage while snorkelling. Eight cetacean species live around Ischia, including sperm whales such as the returning whale locals call Salvatore. Around the Fumarole, the subtropical Cyperus polystachyos grows near active fields. On Monte Epomeo, look for old homes carved into the island's green tuff.

The Passeggiata del Pizzolungo

Capri Town rewards walkers who leave the Piazzetta. The 1.4 km Passeggiata del Pizzolungo is an easy loop, mostly paved, around the southeast tip between Punta Tragara and Arco Naturale. It passes villas, grottoes and views of the Faraglioni, then the Belvedere di Tragara and the Palaeolithic limestone arch. For lunch, climb Via Matermania to Le Grottelle. From there, stairs reach Grotta di Matermania, linked with ancient rituals for Mithras, before the path continues to Belvedere del Pizzolungo and the Faraglioni cliff beach.

The Blue Grotto

Grotta Azzurra has fascinated visitors since Roman times. The cave sank by as much as 20 m in prehistory, leaving an entrance only 1.3 m high. Sunlight passes through a small opening under the water and reflects from the floor, creating the intense blue glow. A boat tour from Marina Grande and a separate rowboat are needed. The stay inside is about 10 minutes, queues can be long, tips are expected by rowboat operators, rough seas close the cave and swimming is forbidden.

Gardens, monastery and Via Krupp

Giardini di Augusto and Certosa di San Giacomo sit close together but offer a calm break from Capri Town. The Carthusian monastery was founded in 1371 by Giacomo Arcucci on land donated by Queen Giovanna I of Anjou; its church has 17th-century frescoes and modern-art exhibitions. The nearby Carthusia perfume shop traces its foundation to 1380. Continue to the terrace garden for flowerbeds, brick paths, busts and views over Marina Piccola and the Faraglioni, especially beautiful in spring.

Via Krupp is a 1.5 km paved hairpin path from the gardens towards Marina Piccola. It was closed for safety from 1976 and later reopened, creating a gentle urban hike with Gulf of Salerno views and the option of a swim below. A bus can take you back uphill.

Shopping recommendations from capri.com point to the island's own clothing, perfume, preserves and artisanal textiles. Piazza Umberto I, La Piazzetta, is Capri Town's people-watching centre, although an espresso can cost €8. Continue through Via Le Botteghe for boutiques, restaurants and hotels, follow the pastry smell to Gelateria Buonocore on Via Vittorio Emanuele for a freshly pressed waffle cone, and then walk Via Camerelle, the island's luxury shopping street. Return to the piazza for aperitivo.

The Amalfi Coast

The Sorrento Coast runs south of Naples from Vico Equense to Massa Lubrense and Punta Campanella. Beyond that corner, the Amalfi Coast continues east to Vietri sul Mare, just before Salerno. The strip is small but impossible to see well in a single rush. Choose a few experiences: cheese in Vico Equense, a swim near Sorrento, ceramics in Vietri, ancient fish sauce in Cetara or a high mountain walk above Amalfi.

The hairpin SS163 is famous and often gridlocked. SITA buses connect all 22 towns on the Sorrentine Peninsula, but they fill from June through August and are also used by residents. Falling rocks, mudslides and high seas can delay both roads and ferries, so keep the day flexible rather than expecting the coast to follow a timetable.

Cheesemaking in Vico Equense

Vico Equense is the first official town on the Sorrentine Coast and a centre for cheesemaking. Caseificio Fernando De Gennaro is Italy's third-oldest cheese shop, in the same family since 1850, and specialises in Provolone del Monaco. Its museum follows the history of cheese, including its ancient Greek roots, and the family can arrange tastings or demonstrations with wine. Caseificio Starace offers hands-on classes in fior di latte, fresh butter or primo sale, the first stage of ageing. Both can be booked through the Vico Equense Be-IT app.

Bagni Regina Giovanna

Bagni Regina Giovanna is a natural pool beside the ruins of a Roman villa outside Sorrento. Tradition links it with Queen Giovanna II of Anjou-Durazzo and the private escapes she made there in the 14th century. The site is free but reachable only on foot. Follow Via Capo from Sorrento to Traversa Punta Capo, buy a sandwich and water at the alimentari, then continue to the footpath and steep staircase. Good shoes are essential. Swim in the shallow pools, picnic among the Pollio Felice villa ruins and take all rubbish away.

Punta Campanella

Punta Campanella marks the end of the Sorrentine Peninsula. A Greek temple dedicated to Athena once stood here, and Roman inscriptions from the second century BCE identify the promontory with Minerva, the goddess who helped Ulysses resist the sirens. From Sorrento or Massa Lubrense, take the bus towards Termini and stay until the terminus. The full route is an 8 km hike that can include San Costanzo Monastery at 486 m; for the views alone, take the first 2 km downhill along the ancient Via Minerva, a Greek-Roman mule track from the fourth century BCE, to the lighthouse. Follow the red and white trail marks and allow two to three hours for the sunset.

A walk through Sorrento

This 1.5 km, 1.5-hour walk begins at Vallone dei Mulini, the deep valley where ancient wheat mills once worked. Continue to Piazza Tasso, whose centre belongs to the statue of patron Sant'Antonino rather than the poet Tasso, then visit the Basilica di Sant'Antonino and its relics, including the whale bones linked with a rescue legend. The Chiostro di San Francesco layers pagan, Roman and medieval architecture and now hosts exhibitions and performances. Return through the small streets to the frescoed 14th-century Dominova Seat, the former meeting place for nobles, then Chiesa dei Santi Felice e Baccolo, once the cathedral and now home to inlaid-wood artist Giuseppe Rocco. Finish at Cuore di Pane, a welcoming neighbourhood gastronomia.

The Amalfi Lemon Experience

Lemons arrived on the coast in the 11th century. The Aceto family has cultivated them in the hills above Amalfi since 1825, and the Amalfi Lemon Experience follows the farm's terraces and sustainable work. Salvatore Aceto explains grafting, disease resistance and the changes required by climate change. The visit ends in a hillside cafe with lemon pesto, homemade pastries and organic limoncello made in the farm press. Optional experiences include cooking classes, honey tastings, lemon and yoga pairings, and a lemon lunch. Tours run throughout the day, prices vary by experience and the meeting point changes; contact the farm about limited mobility.

Agerola's Magici Sentieri rents boots, poles and protective equipment for the coast's trails and also sells gear. It is a practical first stop for walkers who did not bring the necessary kit.

Santa Maria dei Monti

Instead of following the most crowded route, walk from Agerola towards Santa Maria dei Monti on the high plateau of the Lattari Mountains. This medium-difficulty trail follows paths that connected Campania's interior with the coast more than 1000 years ago. Shepherds and farmers still use sections of it, and the route passes chestnut wood, old water sources that powered Amalfi's paper mills and views from Naples to Cilento. Look down for pumice stones carried here by the 79 CE eruption.

At 1100 m, Rifugio di Santa Maria dei Monti, at rifugiosantamaria.com, offers hikers a meal and simple accommodation in the adjacent lodge. Antonio Buonaventura runs the refuge and built a panoramic bench from a giant barrel.

Cetara's contadini pescatori

The Cetara Contadini Pescatori network at cetaracontadinipescatori.com brings traditional craftspeople and tourism professionals together. Experiences include lemon-farm visits, historic walks, cooking with local chefs and overnight fishing trips. The fishing trips leave at dusk and return at dawn, so plan for a full night at sea.

Vietri sul Mare and ceramics

Vietri sul Mare is the ceramic centre at the gateway to the Amalfi Coast. Ceramica Pinto still occupies the family palazzo, with the working studio in the basement and views over the Tyrrhenian Sea. Ceramica Artistica Solimene, designed by Paolo Soleri in 1951, is itself an exuberant building covered in terracotta and Vietri tiles. The adjacent Villa Comunale overlooks the water and demonstrates how lively the craft remains. Museo della Ceramica is free, closed Monday, hosts concerts and has a permanent collection covering several eras of Vietri production.

The Path of the Gods

• ✦If heights are a problem, use trail 327a towards Nocelle rather than trail 327.
• ✦The 1700 steps from Nocelle to Positano can be hard even downhill. A Montepertuso detour adds about 30 minutes, with more paved road and gentler inclines.
• ✦Start early for a cooler walk and a better chance of finding space on the bus.
• ✦For an emergency, call 118 and read the location number on the nearest trail tile. If there is no phone signal, ask a guide for help.

The Sentiero degli Dei was named in the 1980s for an older shepherd route. It runs about 6 km each way from Agerola, usually Bomerano, to Nocelle above Positano and takes three to five hours depending on fitness and preparation. The common direction is mostly downhill: reach Bomerano by bus from Amalfi, walk to Nocelle, then take public transport back or continue to Positano. The lemon slushie stand in Nocelle has the useful combination of refreshments and bathrooms. The path is signposted, but a guide adds context and helps with the return. Carry proper shoes, water, a backpack and a windbreaker: injuries occur every year and high-season crowds make preparation essential.

The art of colatura in Cetara

Cetara's anchovy tradition reaches back to Roman fishing. Colatura di alici is the amber liquid produced by slowly pressing salted anchovies in small chestnut barrels. Through the Contadini Pescatori programme, visitors can learn the process with local producers; classes cost from €50 per person, last two to six hours and accept groups of two to 10.

A sunrise walk through Positano

Start at Fornillo Beach for this 2.4 km, 1.5-hour route. Follow the shore east, climb to Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta and its Byzantine Virgin, then pass Spiaggia Grande and the pedestrian Via dei Mulini beneath bougainvillea. The junction of Via Santa Croce and Via Liparati offers a quiet early panorama. If the Fresh Fruit Juice stall is open, stop for lemonade. Otherwise continue to Donna Rosa, then climb towards Il Buco di Montepertuso, the hole in the rock created by the Virgin Mary in local legend. At sunrise, the opening frames the sky and the first boats entering the port.

Salerno and Cilento

Salerno is Campania's second-largest city and a gentler base after Naples and Sorrento. Cobbled streets, outdoor cafes and architecture ranging from San Matteo to the Salerno Maritime Terminal give the provincial capital a strong identity. South of it, Cilento reaches towards Basilicata and combines Paestum, Velia, the Vallo di Diano, the Certosa di Padula, quiet beaches and the original mozzarella di bufala.

Salerno-Costa d'Amalfi airport began commercial flights in 2024. Hire a car at the airport or in Salerno for independent travel. From April to October, ferries leave central Salerno throughout the day for Amalfi Coast day trips. Trains serve the Cilento coast, with hourly services between Agropoli, Paestum and Salerno. Inside Parco Nazionale del Cilento there are no trains and buses are sporadic, so Salerno is a useful base for the coast but not a substitute for a car in the park.

Giardino della Minerva

Giardino della Minerva contains more than 300 plant species and offers a cool escape a few minutes from the Lungomare. In the early 1300s, physician Matteo Silvatico of the Schola Medica Salernitana cultivated medicinal plants here for teaching. The lower terrace remains organised around the ancient four-humour system of blood, yellow bile, black bile and phlegm. At the time of research the garden was closed for renovation; check giardinodellaminerva.it before going.

Salerno's winter lights and Duomo

From November to January, Luci d'Artista fills Salerno with themed light installations, a giant Christmas tree and a Ferris wheel over the Gulf. The Duomo is entered through the 12th-century Porta dei Leoni. Its courtyard, bronze doors cast in Constantinople and Romanesque bell tower lead to a baroque interior with 13th-century mosaics. The right apse contains the Chapel of the Crusades, and the crypt holds San Matteo's remains beneath late mannerist frescoes. Entry is by a suggested donation of €1; see cattedraledisalerno.it.

A walk through Salerno's historic centre

Allow 1.5 km and one to two hours. Start at Largo Plebiscito and Museo Diocesano San Matteo, whose ivory collection is covered by the Duomo ticket. Follow Via Nicola Montersi to the Duomo and down Via Duomo, then turn through Vicolo Cassavecchia to Museo della Ceramica Alfonso Tafuri, free and filled with painted tiles. Continue through Vicolo Adelberga to San Pietro a Corte, a slightly leaning medieval church, then follow Via dei Canali and Via Dogana Vecchia to Via Mercanti and its artisan shops. Finish at Chiesa di San Giorgio, with its baroque decoration and yellow-tiled floor, and the virtual-reality presentation at Schola Medica Salernitana. The medical school was founded in the ninth century and admitted women as students, practitioners and teachers.

Cilento produce shapes Salerno's menus: limone IGP Costa d'Amalfi, buffalo mozzarella, Cilento charcuterie, carciofo bianco del Tanagro, pomodoro San Marzano DOP and provolone del Monaco DOP. The local dish milza imbottita, or meveza in dialect, is spleen stuffed with garlic, parsley and pepper, then cooked in oil and vinegar and served in a panino.

Castello di Arechi

Castello di Arechi stands in forest above Salerno. The Lombard Duke Arechi expanded the sixth-century fortifications in the eighth century, and Normans and Aragonese later altered them. Adult/child admission is €4/2. Wild capers, mullein and fig trees now grow around the grey stone, while the views follow Salerno's red roofs around the bay and along the coast. The small medieval museum displays pottery, coin hoards and Roman finds, and the basement cistern remains accessible. The castle is about 10 minutes by car from the centre, has small car parks and is served by bus 19 every 80 minutes. A harder alternative is the 10 km Sentiero del Principe from the Duomo, with many stairs; see ilcastellodiarechi.it.

Parco Nazionale del Cilento

The Cilento, Vallo di Diano and Alburni National Park is Italy's second-largest protected park and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991. It stretches from the Tyrrhenian coast to the Campania and Lucanian Apennines and protects the region from uncontrolled building and mass tourism. The park includes 86 municipalities and more than 250,000 residents, a population associated with unusually long lifespans.

The Certosa di Padula is Italy's largest monastery, built over 450 years for Carthusian monks. It later served French troops during the Napoleonic Wars and Garibaldi's army during the Risorgimento. Nearby Battistero di San Giovanni in Fonte is an early Christian baptistery fed by a natural spring. The 47 sq km Valle delle Orchidee near Sassano contains more than 70 wild orchid species; in May, the hills flower and local festivals celebrate them.

Salerno's Oyster

Arriving by boat, the Stazione Marittima di Salerno looks like a futuristic aquarium. Known as the Oyster, the 2016 terminal has an undulating roof that joins water and shore and complements the older Lungomare. It was designed by Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid, the first woman to win the Pritzker Prize, and was the first completed work after her death. Ferries and cruises use the building, which can be dominated by large ships in season.

Paestum

Ancient Greek colonies once occupied much of what are now Calabria, Puglia, Basilicata, Campania and Sicily. Paestum preserves that Magna Graecia world at full scale. The Greek city of Poseidonia later became Roman Paestum, and the ruins were rediscovered in the 1760s and excavated more extensively in the 1930s after a train station and museum opened.

• ✦The temples are about a 10-minute walk from the train station.
• ✦Eco CiceraleRent in Paestum rents bicycles, scooters and cars.
• ✦Some of the strongest restaurants are in Laura, about 10 minutes by car.
• ✦Check the official site or visitor QR code for current prices and opening hours.

A road trip through Cilento

The 132 km route can fill two leisurely days, or you can choose a section. Start at the Grotte di Castelcivita karst caves, then take SS488 through Controne and SS60 past cliffs, dry-stone walls, wild cherries and figs. Stop in Postiglione for its red-roof medieval centre, Norman castle and Piazza Europa, then continue on SS19 to Auletta among mountain rock faces. Next reach Sicignano degli Alburni, with a 14th-century castle, baroque churches, historic convent and two Monte Alburno trails.

On the second day, follow SS35 past high-ridge Petina, then take twisting SP125, or the faster SP35 and E45, to Polla, with Roman origins, a riverfront, 12th-century castle and dark stone houses. Continue on E45 and scenic SS166 to Teggiano, full of churches, museums, a cathedral and a castle. Follow the signs to Sant'Angelo a Fasanella, with 13th-century convents, churches, a Roman bridge and atmospheric old centre, then travel about 18 km west to prehistoric Castelcivita.

Places to stay