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Ancient Rome - the Colosseum, Forum and Palatine

Gladiators, emperors and the birth of a city: the Colosseum, the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill are the ruins that made Rome the Eternal City - and the ticket system that gets you into all three without the queues.

Last updated August 23, 2026

The Colosseum and the Roman Forum
The Roman Forum
Palatine Hill from the Circus Maximus

In a nutshell: the monumental heart of imperial Rome, squeezed between the Capitoline and Palatine hills. The Colosseum is the most thrilling survivor of the ancient world, the Roman Forum is its ruined nerve centre, and the Palatine Hill is where the city was born and emperors lived. Above them, the Vittoriano and the Capitoline Museums complete the picture. It is touristy by day and quiet at night - plan around the crowds and the ticket system and you will have the ancient world almost to yourself.

Ancient Rome at a glance

Just south of the city centre, this monumental district holds Rome's most celebrated ruins and showstopping landmarks: the Colosseum, the Palatino, the Roman Forum and the Vittoriano. Unsurprisingly, it draws sightseers all day long, but once the buses leave it is remarkably quiet after dark, with little after-hours action. Look past the tourists and you will still catch glimpses of local life: joggers doing laps on the Circo Massimo, students hurrying to lectures on the Oppian Hill, journalists waiting outside city hall on the Capitoline Hill.

  • Colosseum - the iconic amphitheatre, the enduring symbol of Rome's imperial might
  • Palatino - the haunting ruins of Rome's birthplace and its most exclusive ancient neighbourhood
  • Capitoline Museums - baroque masterpieces and classical sculpture at the world's oldest public museums
  • Roman Forum - the basilicas, temples and triumphal arches of the empire's nerve centre
  • Vittoriano - a marble extravaganza whose heights command some of Rome's most spectacular views

Getting around

Walking is the way to go: all the main sights sit close together and traffic is limited in the area, so your own two feet are usually the fastest option between the Colosseum, the Forum and the Palatino.

Metro: take line B to Colosseo (for the Colosseum) or Circo Massimo (for the Palatino's southern side), then continue on foot.

Bus: routes 40, 64, 170, 916 and H stop on or near Piazza Venezia, an easy walk from the big sights. Bus 87 runs along Via dei Fori Imperiali between the Colosseum and the Vittoriano.

The Colosseum

An electrifying, spine-tingling sight, the Colosseum is the most thrilling of Rome's ancient monuments. This is where gladiators met in mortal combat and prisoners fought off wild beasts in front of baying, bloodthirsty crowds. Two thousand years on, it remains the city's most popular attraction, drawing up to 12 million visitors a year.

History

The amphitheatre was commissioned by the emperor Vespasian in 72 CE and inaugurated by his son and successor Titus in 80 CE. On completion it was named the Anfiteatro Flavio (Flavian Amphitheatre), after Vespasian's family name, Flavio. For some five centuries the 50,000-seat stadium staged gladiatorial games and lavish, crowd-pleasing spectacles, often to celebrate anniversaries and military victories. Gladiatorial combat was eventually outlawed in the 5th century, but animal shows continued until the mid-6th century.

After the fall of the Roman Empire the Colosseum was largely abandoned. It served as a fortress in the 12th century and was later plundered of its precious building materials. More recently it received a major clean-up between 2014 and 2016, and in July 2023 several newly restored underground areas were opened to the public for the first time.

The exterior

Even without entering, you can get a good look at the structure from outside. The outer walls, which top off at 48.5m (159ft), have three levels of arches framed by columns topped with Ionic, Doric and Corinthian capitals. They were originally clad in travertine, and marble statues filled the niches on the second and third storeys. The upper level, punctuated by square window openings and slender Corinthian pilasters, carried the supports for 240 masts that held a giant awning over the arena. At ground level, 80 entrance arches - known as vomitoria - let spectators enter and be seated in a matter of minutes.

Tickets and booking

Demand for tickets is always high, so book well in advance - even a month ahead for peak periods. There are several tickets available, including a standard 24-hour ticket (€18) and a Full Experience ticket (€24); check colosseo.it for details and booking. Same-day tickets (subject to availability) can be bought at the ticket offices on Piazza del Colosseo (credit or debit cards only) and at Largo della Salara Vecchia.

Colosseum, Forum and Palatino tickets
TicketPriceWhat it covers
24-hour ticket€18Standard entry to the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatino, valid 24 hours
Full Experience€24The 24-hour ticket plus the arena floor, the underground hypogeum, and access to the 'super' sites of the Forum and Palatino
Full Experience Attic€24As the Full Experience, plus the glass lift up to the third floor and the fourth and fifth tiers (the Attic); limited numbers each day
Forum Pass Super€18The Forum and Palatino including the super sites: Santa Maria Antiqua, the Curia, Casa di Augusto, Domus Tiberiana, Museo Palatino, Aula Isiaca and Loggia Mattei

The stands

Once inside, steep steps lead to the first and second tiers, from where you can look over the partially rebuilt arena floor and down into the underground areas. On the second floor you will also find the small Museo del Colosseo, illustrating the Colosseum's history, and a viewing balcony overlooking the Arco di Costantino. To go any higher you will need a Full Experience Attic ticket (€24): a glass lift rises to the third floor, from where you can continue up to the fourth and fifth tiers, known collectively as the Attic - the cheapest sections at the top, where women spectators would have sat.

The cavea, the spectator seating, was divided along social lines: senior officials sat in the lowest tiers, wealthy citizens in the middle and plebs in the highest sectors. The podium, a broad terrace in front of the tiers, was reserved for the emperor, senators and VIPs.

The arena and underground areas

With a Full Experience ticket you can walk on the arena floor and explore the subterranean sections that once served as the stadium's backstage. The arena originally had a wooden floor covered in sand - harena in Latin, hence the word 'arena' - to stop combatants from slipping and to soak up spilled blood. Beneath it extended a half-hectare network of underground chambers and passageways, the hypogeum, where stage sets were prepared and performers gathered before showtime. To hoist people, animals and equipment up to the arena, stage hands used a sophisticated network of 80 winch-operated lifts, all controlled by a single pulley system.

  • Tickets are nominative - bring photo ID to enter the site
  • Reckon on about an hour inside the Colosseum
  • Visit first thing or late afternoon when it is cooler, the crowds thinner and the light better for photos
  • Free interactive audio guides are available on the official MyColosseum app, which also carries historical background and practical information
  • All of the Colosseum's entrances are wheelchair accessible

The Roman Forum

The Roman Forum was ancient Rome's showpiece centre, a teeming district of temples, basilicas, narrow lanes and busy public spaces. Its ruins are today among the city's most impressive, but they can be confusing - fire up your imagination, or get a good guide, to picture them in their pomp.

History

The site, originally a marshy burial ground, was first developed in the 7th century BCE and grew to become the political, religious and commercial hub of the Roman Empire. Like many of ancient Rome's urban developments, it fell into disrepair after the empire collapsed and was eventually reduced to pastureland. In the Middle Ages it was known as the Campo Vaccino ('Cow Field') and plundered for its stone and marble. The area was systematically excavated in the 18th and 19th centuries, and work continues to this day.

Site entrances

There are three main entrances: at Largo della Salara Vecchia, near the Arco di Settimio Severo, and at the Arco di Tito (nearest the Colosseum and therefore the busiest). You can also enter from the Palatino, which is part of the same archaeological park, or from the Colonna di Traiano in the neighbouring Imperial Forums.

Arco di Tito and around

Entering at the Arco di Tito, the triumphal arch is right in front of you. Supposedly the inspiration for Paris' Arc de Triomphe, this martial landmark was built by Domitian in 81 CE to celebrate his brother Titus' victories in Judea and the 70 CE sack of Jerusalem. To the right of the arch, the light-filled Museo del Foro showcases finds from early-20th-century excavations and gives access to part of the Tempio di Venere di Roma, the largest Roman temple ever built.

Similarly epic in scale is the Basilica di Massenzio. Started by the emperor Maxentius and finished by Constantine in 315, this colossal structure originally measured 100m by 65m - roughly three times what it covers now.

The Roman Triumph

The Forum's main drag, the Via Sacra, was the principal route of the Roman Triumph. This official victory parade, originally awarded by the Senate to victorious generals but later reserved for emperors, was a huge spectacle: a procession from the Porta Triumphalis (Triumphal Gate) through the Forum to the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus on the Capitoline Hill.

Via Sacra, temples and churches

From the basilica, the Via Sacra leads to the heart of the site, passing some key temples. You will pass the circular Tempio di Romolo and, beyond that, the columned Tempio di Antonino e Faustina, a 2nd-century-CE temple later converted into a church. Opposite, the Tempio di Giulio Cesare (also known as the Tempio del Divo Giulio) stands where Julius Caesar was cremated in 44 BCE. Nearby, three white columns are all that remain of the 5th-century-BCE Tempio di Castore e Polluce. Next to the columns are the remnants of the revered Tempio di Vesta, whose sacred flame was kept alight by the Vestal Virgins from the adjacent Casa delle Vestali - the building with the central grassy atrium.

Tucked away on the far side of the Forum is the 6th-century Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua, the oldest and most important church on the site. Its cavernous interior is lined with exquisite 6th- to 9th-century frescoes, including an image showing Christ with the founding fathers of the Christian Church. Also striking is a hanging depiction of the Virgin Mary with child, one of the oldest icons in existence. From inside the church you can also access the Rampa di Domiziano, an underground passageway through which the emperors entered the Forum from their Palatine palaces.

Curia and Imperial Forums

In the far northwest corner of the Forum, the Curia Iulia was the original seat of the Roman Senate. A big, barn-like brick building accessible with a Full Experience ticket or a Forum Pass Super, it was rebuilt on various occasions; the version you see now is a 1937 reconstruction of how it looked in the reign of Diocletian (r 284-305). From the Curia, a path leads through sections of the Imperial Forums, continuing under Via dei Fori Imperiali to near the Colonna Traiana. This landmark column features an incredible spiral frieze depicting Rome's victories against the Dacians (from modern-day Romania).

Arco di Settimio Severo and around

Back in the Forum, the 23m-high Arco di Settimio Severo was built in 203 CE to commemorate Emperor Septimius Severus' victories over the Parthians (in modern-day Iran). It was originally dedicated to the emperor and his two sons, Caracalla and Geta, but all mention of Geta was erased after Caracalla had his brother killed. To the left of the arch, eight granite columns remain from the Tempio di Saturno, an important temple that doubled as the state treasury. Behind it are the ruins of the Tempio della Concordia, the 1st-century-CE Tempio di Vespasiano, and the 12-columned Portico degli Dei Consenti, which belonged to one of ancient Rome's last pagan shrines, dating from the 4th century CE.

In front of the arch, the free-standing Colonna di Foca (Column of Phocus) rises above what was once the Forum's main square, the Piazza del Foro. Nearby are the remains of the Rostri, an elaborate podium from which politicians harangued the market crowds. Flanking the piazza are the remains of two major basilicas: on the Via Sacra side, the Basilica Fulvia Aemilia, and on the Palatino side, the Basilica Giulia, commissioned by Julius Caesar and later completed by Augustus.

The Vestal Virgins

Every year, six physically perfect patrician girls aged between six and ten were chosen by lottery to serve Vesta, goddess of hearth and household. Once selected, they faced 30 years of chaste servitude, tending the sacred fire in the Tempio di Vesta. The fire had to burn continuously - and if it ever went out, the priestess responsible would be flogged.

  • Get grandstand views of the Forum from the Palatino and the Capitoline Hill
  • Visit first thing in the morning or late afternoon; crowds are worst between 11am and 2pm
  • In summer it gets very hot with little shade - take a hat and plenty of water
  • The Forum and the Palatino are a single site covered by the same ticket; check colosseo.it for details
  • Several Forum sights - the Tempio di Romolo, the Chiesa di Santa Maria Antiqua and the Curia - can only be accessed with a Full Experience ticket (€24) or a Forum Pass Super (€18)

The Palatino (Palatine Hill)

In a city of ancient wonders, few sites can rival the Palatino, Rome's mythical birthplace. This is where Romulus supposedly founded the city in 753 BCE and where Rome's all-powerful emperors lived in palatial luxury. Nowadays it is a truly haunting spot: a gorgeous green expanse of majestic ruins, towering pine trees and unforgettable views.

Birth of a city

The Palatino is central to Rome's creation story. Hard-nosed realists point to the establishment of a hut village on the hill in around the 9th century BCE - for which there is ample archaeological evidence. Romantics claim that Romulus killed his twin Remus and established Rome here in 753 BCE. Whichever version you prefer, by the 1st century BCE the Palatino had become Rome's most exclusive neighbourhood. Augustus lived here, and successive emperors built increasingly opulent palaces - in fact, the word 'palace' derives from the hill's Latin name, Palatium. After the fall of the Roman Empire the area was abandoned, until rich Renaissance families started building villas in the ruins and laying out gardens and vineyards.

Romulus and Remus

According to legend, Rome's founders were brought up on the Palatino by a shepherd, Faustulus, after a wolf had saved them from death. The twins later fell out, and Romulus killed Remus before founding the city in 753 BCE. Among a series of Iron Age huts in the northwestern part of the hill, the Casa Romuli is where Romulus reputedly lived.

Exploring the ruins

The hilltop site can be reached from two sides - from Via di San Gregorio or through the Roman Forum. Once up top, look out for a tall, white-ish building: the Museo Palatino, a small museum illustrating the development of the surrounding area.

Northwestern sector

To the north and west of the museum lie the remains of the Domus Flavia, the public part of the imperial palace. It was centred on a grand peristilio (peristyle, or porticoed courtyard) - the grassy area with the base of an octagonal fountain - off which the main halls led. Signposted from near the Domus Flavia are the Casa di Livia, home of Augustus' wife Livia, and the Casa di Augusto, Augustus' private residence. The latter features some superb frescoes but can only be visited at set times, with a Full Experience ticket or a Forum Pass Super. Near the Casa di Augusto, but closed to visitors, is the Villaggio di Capanne (Hut Village), where Romulus and Remus supposedly lived.

Continuing towards the Forum you will come to the 16th-century Orti Farnesiani, one of Europe's earliest botanical gardens. This lovely, shady spot has a monumental balcony commanding breathtaking views over the Roman Forum. Further down the hill is the Domus Tiberiana: recently opened to visitors after years of restoration work, it was the first palace built on the Palatino, in the 1st century CE. A path runs through the vast superstructure to vaulted rooms displaying archaeological artefacts.

Eastern sector

The ruins extending behind and to the east of the Museo Palatino are what is left of the Domus Augustana, the emperor's private part of the palace. Built on two levels, with rooms leading off a peristyle on each floor, it cannot be explored at the lower level - but from above you can see a square water feature and sweeping views over the Circo Massimo. Also here are the Aula Isiaca, a frescoed room from an ancient Republican-era house, and the Loggia Mattei, a Renaissance loggia decorated by Baldassarre Peruzzi. Nearby is one of the few recognisable structures on the site, the Stadio: this sunken area, part of the main imperial palace, was probably used by the emperors for private games and events.

  • As a rough guide, allow about three hours for the Palatino and the Forum together
  • If you have an early time slot for the Colosseum, do the Palatino after the Colosseum and Forum; if your Colosseum visit is in the afternoon, cover the Palatino first, then the Forum and Colosseum
  • The Museo Palatino, Aula Isiaca, Loggia Mattei, Casa di Augusto and Domus Tiberiana require a Forum Pass Super (€18) or a Full Experience ticket (€24)

The Capitoline Museums

Dating to 1471, the Capitoline Museums are the world's oldest public museums. Their collection of classical sculpture, housed in two stately palazzi on Piazza del Campidoglio, is one of Italy's finest and brilliantly complements the archaeological treasures on show in the nearby forums. There is also a formidable picture gallery with works by many big-name Italian artists.

Palazzo dei Conservatori

The entrance is in Palazzo dei Conservatori, where you will find the original core of the sculptural collection on the first floor and the Pinacoteca (picture gallery) on the second floor. Before heading upstairs, take a moment to admire the ancient masonry in the courtyard - notably a mammoth head, hand and foot, all from a 13m-high statue of Constantine that stood in the Basilica di Massenzio in the Roman Forum. To see what the statue would have originally looked like, check out the life-size reconstruction of the Colosseo di Costantino in the gardens of the adjacent Villa Caffarelli.

Of the sculpture, the most famous piece is undoubtedly the Etruscan Lupa Capitolina (Capitoline Wolf). Depicting a she-wolf standing over her suckling wards, Romulus and Remus, it is one of several celebrated bronzes currently in the Esedra di Marco Aurelio. Other important works include the Spinario, a delicate 1st-century-BCE portrayal of a boy removing a thorn, and the original equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius - the version in the piazza outside is a copy. In the Esedra you can also see the foundations of the Temple of Jupiter, one of the ancient city's most important temples. Elsewhere, look out for Alessandro Algardi's depiction of Pope Innocent X and two sculptural works by Gian Lorenzo Bernini: Medusa in the Sala delle Oche and a statue of Pope Urban VIII in the Sala degli Orazi e Curiazi.

Up on the second floor, the Pinacoteca displays works from the Middle Ages through to the 18th century. Every room harbours masterpieces, but two stand out: the Sala Pietro da Cortona, featuring the artist's famous depiction of the Ratto delle Sabine (Rape of the Sabine Women; 1630), and the Sala di Santa Petronilla, named after Guercino's huge canvas Seppellimento di Santa Petronilla (The Burial of St Petronilla; 1621-23). This airy hall also boasts a 1649 portrait by Velázquez and two important works by Caravaggio: La buona ventura (The Fortune Teller; 1595) and San Giovanni Battista (John the Baptist; 1602).

Palazzo Nuovo

Palazzo Nuovo is crammed to its elegant 17th-century rafters with classical Roman sculpture. From the lobby, where the curly-bearded Mars glares ferociously at passersby, stairs lead up to the main galleries. Here you will find real showstoppers such as the Galata morente (Dying Gaul) in the Sala del Galata. One of the museum's greatest works - actually a Roman copy of a 3rd-century-BCE Greek work - it movingly captures the quiet, resigned anguish of a dying Gaul warrior. Next door, the Sala del Fauno takes its name from a red marble statue of a faun. Another superb figurative piece, and another Roman copy of an earlier Greek sculpture (4th century BCE), is the sensual yet demure Venere Capitolina (Capitoline Venus) in the Gabinetto della Venere.

The Tabularium

A tunnel links Palazzo dei Conservatori to Palazzo Nuovo on the other side of the piazza. The underground gallery, lined with panels and inscriptions from ancient tombs, passes by the Tabularium - ancient Rome's central archive - which has some fantastic views over the Roman Forum.

The Treaty of Rome

The Sala degli Orazi e Curiazi, with its papal statues and frescoes illustrating Roman history, provided the grand setting for one of modern Europe's key events. On 25 March 1957 the leaders of Italy, France, West Germany, Belgium, Holland and Luxembourg met here to sign the Treaty of Rome and establish the European Economic Community, the precursor of the European Union.

  • Admission is free on the first Sunday of the month - but expect crowds and long queues
  • Have a phone handy to snap the views over the Roman Forum from the Tabularium
  • Even if you do not want a drink, stop by the museum's second-floor cafe, the Terrazza Caffarelli, for terrific rooftop views
  • The museums' website has an excellent virtual tour - a good way to whet your appetite before you visit
  • The ground-floor bookshop has a good collection of books and guides on Rome and classical art

A walk through ancient Rome

Follow in the footsteps of an ancient Roman on this whistle-stop tour of the city's most famous ruins: 2km and about five hours from the Colosseum to the Vittoriano.

Itinerary

From the Colosseum to the Vittoriano

  1. 01Colosseum - start at Rome's signature amphitheatre, a spectacular feat of engineering inaugurated in 80 CE with a bloodthirsty bout of games that lasted 100 days
  2. 02Palatino - follow Via di San Gregorio to the hill, poke around the ruins of the imperial palace and revel in glorious views over the Roman Forum
  3. 03Roman Forum - descend from the Palatino to enter near the Arco di Tito; in ancient times this was the empire's nerve centre, a swarming hive of law courts, temples, piazzas and shops, now a fascinating tangle of monumental ruins
  4. 04Piazza del Campidoglio - exit the Forum at Largo della Salara Vecchia and head up to one of Rome's most beautiful squares, flanked by two elegant palazzi (mansions)
  5. 05Capitoline Museums - the two palazzi house the museums' stunning collection of classical sculpture and Old Masters
  6. 06Vittoriano - sated on art, pop next door to the mountain of white marble; no ancient citizen ever walked here, but it is worth exploring for the breathtaking views, best of all the sweeping 360-degree panorama from the top (accessible by lift)

Via dei Fori Imperiali

At some point you will almost certainly find yourself walking up Via dei Fori Imperiali, the largely traffic-free road that connects the Colosseum with Piazza Venezia. Much of the Colosseum end is currently flanked by construction work, but the upper end provides a wonderful platform for admiring the forums - the Roman Forum to the left, the Imperial Forums to the right. The Imperial Forums, which can be accessed through the Mercati di Traiano or the Roman Forum, comprise the forums of Trajan, Augustus, Nerva and Caesar. Landmark sights include the Mercati di Traiano and the Colonna Traiana, but you can also see three temple columns in the Foro di Augusto and a 30m-high wall that protected the forums from the fires sweeping down from the nearby Suburra slums.

Mussolini's forum road

Unlike the monuments that surround it, Via dei Fori Imperiali never formed part of the ancient city. It was built by Mussolini and inaugurated on 28 October 1932. The road, which cleaves straight through the forums, formed part of an urban development project to modernise Rome's infrastructure and improve links with the city's outlying districts. It also served a propagandistic purpose, giving Mussolini a symbolic connection between his fascist regime (as represented by Piazza Venezia) and the Roman Empire (as represented by the Colosseum). To build the 900m-long road, his bulldozers razed an entire Renaissance quarter, known as Alessandrino, and tarmacked over much of the ancient forums.

Mercati di Traiano - Museo dei Fori Imperiali

Mercati di Traiano Museo dei Fori Imperiali

🎟 Adult €13, reduced €9.50

To make sense of the sprawling Imperial Forums, search out this striking museum (mercatiditraiano.it). It showcases the Mercati di Traiano (Trajan's Markets), Trajan's towering 2nd-century complex, while providing a fascinating introduction to the forums with multimedia displays, explanatory panels and archaeological artefacts. Sculptures, friezes and the occasional bust are set out in rooms opening onto what was once the Great Hall. But more than the exhibits, the real highlight is exploring the vast structure itself, which historians believe housed the forums' administrative offices. Rising above the markets is the Torre delle Milizie, a 13th-century red-brick tower.

Tip: Look out from the museum over the Imperial Forums, the Vittoriano and the Capitoline Hill - it is one of the area's best free vantage points.

Official site →

The Vittoriano

Vittoriano (Altare della Patria)

🎟 Free access to the monument; €17 for the Museo Centrale del Risorgimento and the Panoramic Terrace

Love it or loathe it (as many Romans do), there is no denying the Vittoriano (vive.cultura.gov.it/en/vittoriano), also known as the Altare della Patria or Altar of the Fatherland, is a breathtaking sight. Soaring above Piazza Venezia, the colossal white monument was inaugurated in 1911 to honour Italy's first king, Vittorio Emanuele II. You can enjoy stunning views from its marble balconies, most of which are free to access; for €17 you can also visit the Museo Centrale del Risorgimento inside (dedicated to Italian unification) and reach the Panoramic Terrace, which admittedly boasts Rome's most spectacular 360-degree views.

Tip: The Panoramic Terrace is the classic reward at the end of the Forum-to-Vittoriano walk - go up in the late afternoon for golden light.

Official site →

Palazzo Venezia

Palazzo Venezia

🎟 Adult €17, reduced €2

The oldest of Rome's great Renaissance palaces, the 15th-century Palazzo Venezia (vive.cultura.gov.it/en/palazzo-venezia) is a top spot to escape the crowds. Its free-to-enter courtyard is a verdant oasis of peace, and its museum, the Museo Nazionale del Palazzo Venezia, remains off the main tourist radar despite a fascinating collection of Byzantine and early Renaissance paintings, ceramics, weaponry and armour.

Tip: For centuries the palazzo housed the Venetian embassy - hence its name - but it is most readily associated with Mussolini, who famously made speeches from the balcony of the Sala del Mappamondo (Globe Room).

Official site →

Churches and curiosities

Basilica dei SS Cosma e Damiano

🎟 Church free; Neapolitan presepe €1

As is common in Rome, the area's churches harbour wonderful treasures. Chief among them is a fabulous 6th-century mosaic in the apse of this tranquil medieval church, which boasts a picturesque 17th-century cloister and an elaborate Neapolitan presepe (nativity scene). It backs onto the Roman Forum and incorporates parts of the Foro di Vespasiano and the Tempio di Romolo.

Tip: Step straight from the Forum crowds into a cool, silent medieval interior - the mosaic in the apse alone is worth the detour.

Chiesa di Santa Maria in Aracoeli

🎟 Free

A short walk from the Forum, at the top of the 124-step Aracoeli staircase, this 6th-century church boasts a richly decorated interior and a wooden baby Jesus thought to have healing powers. In fact, the doll is a copy: the original, supposedly made of wood from the garden of Gethsemane, was stolen in 1994 and has never been recovered.

Tip: The climb up the 124 steps is worth it - and there is an alternative entrance with steps from behind the Vittoriano that avoids the long staircase.

Bocca della Verità

🎟 Free to visit the church portico

For a uniquely Roman snap, strike a pose at the Bocca della Verità. As a monument this ancient curiosity is fairly low-key: a bearded face carved into a giant marble disc, possibly from an ancient fountain or manhole cover. What makes it special is the legend surrounding it - if you tell a lie with your hand in the bocca (mouth), it will slam shut and bite your paw off. The challenge, then, is to place your hand in the mouth, smile gingerly and tell a lie. You will find the mythical mouth in the portico of the medieval Chiesa di Santa Maria in Cosmedin, usually at the end of a long line of waiting snappers.

Tip: Go early to beat the queue for the photo - the line forms even before the church opens.

Circo Massimo

🎟 Free to jog the circuit; the southern-end segment costs €5 alone or €12 with VR headset

For a slice of local life, join the joggers on the Circo Massimo, once ancient Rome's largest chariot racetrack: a 600m circuit inside a 250,000-seat stadium. Little remains of the vast structure apart from a small segment at the southern end, which can now be visited either independently or with VR goggles (circomaximoexperience.it). The huge dusty basin retains its rectangular shape, and there is something undeniably uplifting about exercising in the shadow of the Palatino. Serious athletes take to Rome's streets in late March or April for the Rome Marathon, which starts and finishes on Via dei Fori Imperiali.

Tip: Sunset is the magic hour here - joggers, families and the Palatino glowing gold behind you.

Official site →

Ancient Rome's best lookouts

  • Vittoriano - towering over everything, the colossal marble monument provides a spectacular viewing platform
  • Orti Farnesiani, Palatino - one of Europe's earliest botanical gardens commands grandstand views over the Roman Forum
  • Piazza del Campidoglio - go through the arch to the right of Palazzo Senatorio for the classic view of the Roman Forum sprawling down to the Colosseum
  • Mercati di Traiano Museo dei Fori Imperiali - look out onto the Imperial Forums, the Vittoriano and the Capitoline Hill
  • Terrazza Caffarelli - the Capitoline Museums' terrace cafe is a top spot for sweeping rooftop views and cool drinks

Markets, events and local life

Immerse yourself in the sights, smells and tastes of the Mercato Campagna Amica al Circo Massimo (mercatocircomassimo.campagnamica.it). This farmers market, held every Saturday and Sunday morning near the Circo Massimo, showcases producers from Lazio and central Italy. Stalls sell all manner of seasonal produce, including potential take-home gifts: cheese, conserves, jars of honey, ready-made sauces, olive oils and wines.

  • Good Friday - join the crowds at the Colosseum to witness the Pope lead the traditional Via Crucis procession
  • 21 April - Rome marks its birthday, the Natale di Roma, with events and historical reenactments usually held around Via dei Fori Imperiali, the Campidoglio and the Circo Massimo
  • 2 June - the Festa della Repubblica (Republic Day): Italy's institutional leaders congregate on the Vittoriano and Via dei Fori Imperiali for wreath laying and a military parade
  • Late March or April - the Rome Marathon starts and finishes on Via dei Fori Imperiali

Eating in Ancient Rome

Alimentari Pannella CarmelaCasual · Budget

Ancient Rome

A workaday food store, ideal for made-to-order sandwiches.

Hours8.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat, 5-8pm Mon-Fri

Osteria CircoTrattoria · Moderate

Circo Massimo

A warm-hearted osteria near the Circo Massimo with traditional Italian fare and hearty Roman pastas.

Hoursnoon-3.30pm and 7.30-11.30pm

47 Circus Roof GardenFine dining · Upmarket

Ancient Rome

A romantic rooftop restaurant with memorable views, Mediterranean cuisine and sunset aperitivi.

Hours12.30-3.30pm and 7-10.30pm

Ristorante Ad HocFine dining · Upmarket

Circo Massimo

A smart restaurant in a 16th-century palazzo on the Circo Massimo with Italian cuisine and national wines.

Hours7-10.45pm Fri-Wed

Drinking in Ancient Rome

  • Rhinoceros le Restau & Roofbar - inspiring views with chic, pricey cocktails at a rooftop bar and restaurant atop a designer hotel. Open noon-late
  • American Bar - overlooking a sea of ruins, the Hotel Forum's rooftop bar is a romantic spot for a sunset aperitivo. From 4pm
  • Terrazza Caffarelli - rooftop views and coffee at the Capitoline Museums' cafe; without a ticket, enter from Piazzale Caffarelli. 9.30am-7pm
  • 0,75 - a laid-back Circo Massimo bar good for a lingering drink, aperitif or casual meal, favoured by a young international crowd. 10.30am-2am

Where to sleep in Ancient Rome

The guide's picks in the area are the Inn at the Roman Forum, Nerva Boutique Hotel, Residenza Maritti and Rhinoceros Roma. All sit within easy reach of the archaeological sites - the area is quiet at night even though it is packed by day.

FAQ

Do I need to book Colosseum tickets in advance?

Yes - demand is always high, and in peak periods you should book a month ahead. The standard 24-hour ticket is €18; a Full Experience ticket is €24. Book on colosseo.it. Same-day tickets are sometimes available at the offices on Piazza del Colosseo (cards only) and Largo della Salara Vecchia.

Which ticket should I choose - the 24-hour ticket, Full Experience or Forum Pass Super?

The €18 24-hour ticket covers the Colosseum, Forum and Palatino. Add the €24 Full Experience for the arena floor, the underground hypogeum and the Forum's super sites (Santa Maria Antiqua, the Curia). The €18 Forum Pass Super covers the Forum and Palatino with the super sites but not the Colosseum's extras. All tickets are nominative, so bring photo ID.

Is the Forum the same ticket as the Palatino?

Yes - the Roman Forum and the Palatino are a single archaeological site covered by the same ticket. You can move freely between the two, entering from Largo della Salara Vecchia, near the Arco di Settimio Severo, at the Arco di Tito, or from the Palatino itself.

How long do I need for the Colosseum, Forum and Palatino?

About an hour inside the Colosseum, and roughly three hours for the Palatino and Forum together. If you walk the full Colosseum-to-Vittoriano route with the museums, plan on five hours and 2km of walking.

When is the best time to visit?

First thing in the morning or late afternoon. Between 11am and 2pm the crowds are at their worst and in summer the ruins offer little shade - bring a hat and water, and book the Attic or underground tickets well ahead since only a limited number sell each day.

Ancient Rome is the reason half the world comes to Rome: the roar of the Colosseum, the ghost of the Via Sacra, the pines of the Palatino. Book your tickets ahead, arrive early, and let the stones tell their story - then follow the links to the rest of the city.