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רומא מדריךרומא · Santa Maria in Trastevere

Santa Maria in Trastevere and the piazza ברומא

The heart of Trastevere beats around its most famous piazza, where the fountain steps are never empty, and the golden mosaics of one of Rome's oldest basilicas glow behind them.

עודכן לאחרונה 23 באוגוסט 2026

In a nutshell: the piazza and its basilica are the soul of Trastevere, and the alleys around them hold the neighbourhood's oldest secrets. For the full picture start with the district overview, climb the Gianicolo for the view, browse Porta Portese or head out for food and nightlife.

Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere

The piazza dominated by the church that gives it its name is one of the neighbourhood's favourite places to hang out, chat and enjoy the slow life, even if only for a few minutes. It mills with locals and tourists at every hour of the day, and especially of the night, which makes it the perfect setting to sit down and do some people-watching before jumping back into sightseeing.

Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere

Besides the basilica and the adjacent San Callisto palace, which belongs to the Holy See, the square's most distinctive feature is its fountain, whose steps are predictably dotted with people. The fountain, named after the square named after the church, is one of the oldest in Rome, even though it has been through its fair share of restorations. It seems to date all the way back to the age of Augustus, when it was fed by the same reservoir of water used to stage naval battles. Bernini left his mark here too: commissioned around 1658 to renovate it, he raised the fountain with the help of some steps and added the heraldic symbols of Pope Alexander VII, as well as the four shells that still decorate it today.

Tip: Come at dusk: the piazza is at its most atmospheric once the church lights come on and the evening crowd takes over the fountain steps.

Cobblestones and stumbling stones

It pays to look down as you walk through Trastevere, and not only because the picturesque cobblestones can be treacherous and slippery when wet. Among the regular stones you will sometimes find a gilded pietra d'inciampo, or stumbling stone. Every one of these bronze squares is engraved with the name of a Jewish Roman citizen and marks the spot where that person was arrested by Nazi troops during WWII and deported to one of the Reich's concentration camps. Many of the stones appear in groups, marking the places where entire families were taken.

Roman classics around the piazza

TonnarelloTrattoria · Moderate

Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere

Always packed, and rightfully so: it serves all the great staples of Roman cuisine with flair.

Hours11am-11pm

Da EnzoTrattoria · Moderate

Trastevere

A tiny, somewhat hidden trattoria whose dishes are sourced only from nearby farms in Lazio.

Hours12.15-3pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat

Osteria NannarellaTrattoria · Moderate

Trastevere

Great place to sit down and enjoy everything from carbonara to fried artichokes in the heart of the neighbourhood.

Hours11.30am-11.30pm

Trattoria da TeoTrattoria · Moderate

Trastevere

Loved by both locals and visitors, perfect for platefuls of Roman standards.

Hours12.30-3pm & 7.30-11.30pm Mon-Sat

The Festa de' Noantri

If your visit falls in the second half of July, do not miss the celebration that sweeps through Trastevere and makes its streets livelier than ever. Tradition says that the Festa de' Noantri (check festadenoantri.it for dates), whose name means 'our celebration', as in one for Trastevere locals rather than the people of other neighbourhoods, dates to 1535. In that year a statue of the Virgin Mary was fished out of the River Tiber and entrusted first to the Basilica di San Crisogono, becoming the patron of the entire neighbourhood in the process.

That statue now lives in the Chiesa di Sant'Agata in Trastevere, and it is from there that every 16 July a procession carries it to visit its first home in San Crisogono before returning to Sant'Agata. After a week, the statue embarks on a second procession, this time on the Tiber, to commemorate where it was originally found: it sails up to Ponte Garibaldi and then remains for a night in the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere, which marks the end of the celebrations. Besides the very picturesque religious aspect, the days of the Festa mean that street vendors and performances flourish in every corner of the neighbourhood, drawing locals and tourists alike.

Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere

Basilica di Santa Maria in Trastevere

Glittering with dazzling 12th-century mosaics, this is one of the oldest basilicas in Rome to be dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Once said to stand on the site of a miraculous oil fountain, it remains one of the most important churches in the whole of Trastevere.

Tip: The best times to visit are early in the morning or late in the afternoon, when natural light truly enhances the church's beauty.

A triumph of mosaics: tradition says the first version of the church was founded in the 3rd century CE and concluded in the 4th. What you see today is the result of a complete 12th-century revamp, which included adding 24 Roman columns taken from the Baths of Caracalla and stunning mosaics, the true crown jewel of the basilica, found both inside and high up on the facade. The portico was added only at the beginning of the 18th century, with various pieces of Roman marble forming an informal mosaic of sorts to echo the ones inside. Tradition also holds that the church was built on the exact spot of a wondrous fountain that supposedly sprouted oil rather than water; you can still see the location inside, marked with the words Fons Olei on a balustrade to the right of the altar. Scholars, however, believe the miracle might actually have been pollution: not fons olei, 'oil fountain', but fons olidus, 'polluted fountain', because the water came from the same reservoirs used to stage mock naval battles in local arenas.

A maze of alleyways

The best way to really soak in Trastevere's unique feel is by getting lost in its myriad little streets and alleys. This short walking tour runs from Via Titta Scarpetta to Vicolo del Cedro and takes about 40 minutes over 1.1 km.

  • Via Titta Scarpetta - little marble fragments and religious images are embedded in the house walls: a Roman-looking female profile, heraldic sigils and even a cherub.
  • Via della Lungaretta - once a single uninterrupted street, cut in two by the construction of the massive Viale Trastevere. Look up to see the Romanesque bell tower of the church of Sante Rufina e Seconda and several wall plaques commemorating victims of the late-19th-century unrest that marked the beginning of the end of the popes' temporal power.
  • Vicolo della Torre - a textbook Trastevere alley, all green-covered, colourful houses and treacherous cobblestones.
  • Piazza Santa Rufina & Vicolo del Piede - circle the quaint piazza and continue on Via della Lungaretta; the narrow Vicolo del Piede houses a former church once tied to the much larger Santa Maria in Trastevere, which may explain the alley's peculiar name: the Latin 'ad pedes' means 'nearby'.
  • Via della Paglia - once split into two sections: one held warehouses storing forage for horses, which may be where the modern name comes from, and the other housed a graveyard kept in good order until the late 19th century.
  • Vicolo del Cedro - dotted with Trastevere's typical stocky houses, this alley holds an entrance to the Gianicolo shelter used to protect citizens during WWII.

Churches of Trastevere

A cluster of churches dots the streets of Trastevere, all with their own peculiarities and unique history. This short circuit runs from the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Scala to the Chiesa di San Francesco a Ripa, about 1.6 km and 40 minutes on foot.

  • Chiesa di Santa Maria della Scala - built between the 16th and 17th centuries to house a holy icon of the Madonna della Scala; its richly decorated interiors doubled as a field hospital in 1849, during the Roman Republic.
  • Chiesa di Sant'Agata in Trastevere - a late-baroque church founded around the 8th century, though it went through several modifications in the following centuries. It is the home of the Madonna de Noantri, literally 'our Madonna' in Roman dialect, the patron of the neighbourhood.
  • Basilica di San Crisogono - dating to the 3rd century, one of the oldest churches in Rome. It features beautiful marble floors, several columns taken from ancient Roman buildings and a wooden coffered ceiling.
  • Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Trastevere - built on top of a 2nd-century-BCE Roman domus that was likely converted into an insula, the Roman version of an apartment building. According to tradition, this is also where Santa Cecilia, the church's dedicatee, was martyred in the 3rd century.
  • Chiesa di San Francesco a Ripa Grande - may surprise you by housing one of Bernini's masterpieces, the statue of the Beata Ludovica Albertoni, which carries the same sensual undertones as the Ecstasy of St Teresa in the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria.